Why you MUST learn how to stop

After learning to ride and adequately balance on your longboard, learning to stop is the next most important skill to know.

Learning to stop will allow you to control your speed and will help keep you safe in almost all riding situations.

Being safe is essential as it means you can ride time and time again and not have to take time off because you’re injured.

7 ways to stop on a longboard

The are a variety of different ways to stop on a longboard. Each has its ideal use case and skill level. Mastering all of them will make you a versatile longboarder.

1. Don’t go faster than you can handle

My first tip is NOT to go faster than you can handle. 

If you don’t think you can make it down a hill without falling or manage to stop in time, don’t go down or allow yourself to gain too much speed.

It’s not the most exciting rule, but it'll save you from some possibly severe injuries over time. Always abiding by this rule will allow you to stay out of all sorts of trouble. Simply skate within your limits.

2. Run it out

One of the easiest ways to stop on a longboard is to run it out or "bail."

If you feel like you're going too fast, you can simply run off your longboard, sprinting on the ground.

As you start to lose momentum, you'll be able to stop. However, it is important that you continue your run and not just jump off as the sheer speed you're going at will knock you over.

3. Carving aggressively

Carving back and forth across the road allows you to shave off a bit of speed.

Carving aggressively works because it allows you to increase the distance you take down the road. If you’re aggressive enough, it makes your wheels “scrub” which is essentially a “micro-slide”, and the friction from your wheels scrubbing slows you down a bit.

4. Stomping

Using your back foot, you stomp on the ground and lift your foot again multiple times in quick succession. Each stomp slows you down a little bit.

Most people that try to learn foot braking will start with the stomping variation as it is easier to learn. It's a viable technique when you're going at slow speeds and it doesn't wear your shoes down as much as regular foot braking does.

5. Foot braking - MUST LEARN

Foot braking is the most consistent and reliable method of controlling your speed and coming to a stop on your longboard. 

I highly recommend everyone learn this method and take time to get to grips with it.

Some people will have a harder time than others, but it is worth the struggle. For the average skater, it will take more than a few sessions to learn it.

How to Footbrake in 5 Steps

You footbrake by bringing your back foot off the board, and placing it lightly on the ground heel first. 

Doing this allows the sole of your shoe to grind against the ground, creating friction. In turn, the friction slows you down gradually.

Step 1 - Position your front foot

Bring your front foot slightly over the board's center line, close to or over the front trucks.

You can have it directly over the center line or slightly skewed. Some people feel they have better control when their foot is skewed. You’ll have to play around with which you like best.

Finally, shift all of your weight over your front. Apply it as close to the middle of your front foot as possible will make balancing easier.

Step 2 - Bring your back foot to a parallel

With your rear foot deweighted, you can now comfortably bring it parallel to your front foot and hover it to the side.

Step 3 - Bend your board leg

Slowly bend your board leg to bring your hovering foot closer to the ground.

Surprisingly, this is the step that is most challenging for the majority of skaters.

Surprisingly, most longboarders will find this step to be the most challenging. It isn't easy to confidently balance on a single leg while also bending it.

I recommend you practice this move 10-15 times daily off the board to build strength and balance in both legs.

The balancing bit normally develops over time the more you footbrake.

Step 4 - Drive your heel into the ground

As you bend your board leg, lower the other foot to the ground heel first. You want to do this as gently as possible and then gradually apply more pressure to get more braking force.

You must drive your heel into the ground, not your toes. If you go toes first, your foot may catch on the ground. This will could potentially send you off your longboard.

The most important piece of advice here is always to feel the movement. Only make minor, gradual adjustments in braking pressure as too heavy shifts in power may throw you off balance.

Step 5 - Bring your back foot to its starting point

Once you’re done slowing down as much as you want, gently lift your foot off the ground (heel last), place it back gently on the board and then shift your front foot back into a comfortable standing position.

Cons of foot braking

You tend to wear down your shoes quite a bit using foot braking. Most skate shoes constructed for the purpose last a while, but non-skate shoes get obliterated fairly quickly.

Some seasoned skaters use footbrake soles. These soles are made from rubber that you stick on the bottom of your actual shoe soles. This additional layer is easy to replace and lasts a long time.

Foot braking can also be time-consuming to learn. I know some skaters who never bothered learning it because they couldn’t put enough time aside. Some casual longboarders can't be bothered with the daunting learning curve.

Finally, foot braking at faster speeds is hard and scary. So, if you’re bombing a hill or going super fast, have some other ways of slowing yourself and controlling your speed that you feel comfortable with. 

6. Air braking

Similar to carving aggressively, air braking is a way to shave off a bit of speed.

It works by extending your arms out and making your aerodynamic profile as wide and as large as possible. This increases how much air is pushing against you (like a parachute), and it can slow you down a bit.

7. Sliding

Out of all the above methods, sliding requires the most skill. It is the most challenging braking method to learn and truthfully deserves an extensive guide of its own, but we will do our best to give you a brief overview of how it’s done.

Once you've conquered sliding, it is a highly reliable method for shedding speed. Downhill longboarders use it to slow down from as fast as 60 MPH in seconds.

If you consider yourself a casual skater, sliding isn't a necessary skill. However, making it down a hill without foot braking is a great feeling.

Different types of sliding

There are different ways to slide and different names for each slide, but we will categorize them into two;

• stand-up slides
• hands-down slides

Stand-up slide (also known as powerslide) is when you make a slide without putting your hand (or any other body part) in contact with the ground.

Hands-down slide is when you anchor your hand in the ground (with slide gloves) while kicking the board out into a slide.

How to slide on a longboard

A slide is when you turn your board so hard that it makes your wheels break traction and slide across the pavement. This creates a lot of resistance as the wheels aren't spinning around the trucks.

You maintain the slide by leaning back, placing your weight in the right places, and controlling the way the board rotates with your feet and body placement.

How to hands-down slide

Step 1 - Do a setup carve

To do a hands-down slide, you start with a setup carve. The setup carve is an aggressive carve that allows you to bring the wheels to their limit of traction.

It then becomes easy to push them into a slide. It also places your body in the optimal position to control the slide.

Step 2 - Place your hand on the ground

As you do your setup carve, you also place your hand on the ground. Which hand to use depends on whether you're doing a toeside or heelside slide.

The specifics of doing a toeside or heelside slide differ, but they share similarities. We’re covering the similarities to give you a brief idea of how the slides work.

So as you come to the zenith of the setup carve, you start to push the back of the board out. This makes the rear wheels lose traction. 

Step 3 - Distribute weight and position your hand

As you do the above, you need to ensure you have most of your weight on your front foot and that your hand on the ground is in line with your front truck or ahead of it.

You also want to shift a bit of weight (not the majority) to your hand to ensure it appropriately acts as a pivot point for the board to rotate around. This will allow you to control the slides more effectively.

Step 4 - Come back to the starting position

Once you’re done sliding as much as you want, you can release pressure on your back foot and allow the wheels to come back under you and regain traction.

You may want to bend your knees to absorb the lurch of the wheels hooking up.

How to do a stand-up slide

Step 1 - Do a setup carve

The stand-up slide starts with a setup carve as well. The setup carve will make completing the following step easier, as you can use the generated momentum in your direction change.

Step 2 - Kick your back leg out

At the setup carve's zenith, you kick your back leg out. As you do this, you should have a lot of your weight on your front foot as this will allow the board to pivot/rotate around it. 

You should also have most of your weight on your heels or toes, depending on whether you're doing a heelside or a toeside slide.

Step 3 - Lean back

As you kick out the board, you should begin leaning back.

If you’re doing a heelside slide, you can imagine sitting back in an imaginary chair.

For a toeside, lean back (with a twisted torso, so your chest faces down towards the ground).

Leaning back allows you to drive weight into the board and control the slide much better. You’re going to want to lean a lot more than you imagine is necessary.

Step 4 - Control the slide

As you break into the slide, hang in there, maintaining pressure on your back leg and weight on your front leg until you’ve shaved as much speed as you’d like.

Keep your arms broad from your body to better maintain your balance.

Step 5 - Release the slide

To bring the board back into going straight, release the pressure on your back leg whilst maintaining your weight on your front leg. This will allow the board to rotate back into going straight.

As the board comes back to a forward position, bend your knees to absorb the lurch that occurs from regaining traction.

Wrapping it up

Hopefully, you've learned something about stopping or slowing down on a longboard. At the bare minimum, I think you should learn to footbrake. It is one of the most essential skills to have in your skill set, and it doesn't take too much effort to learn.

If you wanna take things to the next level and do high-speed downhill riding, you'll eventually have to learn sliding. While the above info doesn't cover sliding into complete depth, it is an excellent starting point to get you dabbling with sliding.

What are longboard bushings?

Despite their small size and insignificant appearance, bushings can make or break a longboard setup.

Bushings are urethane rings seated on the kingpin, locked into place by the kingpin nut. Each truck has two bushings - one seated at each side of the truck hanger.

There's an array of different bushing shapes and bushing hardness ratings. Each combination allows you to dial in your longboard to accommodate your desired ride style.

Bushing locations:

Bushings positions are either referred to as boardside or roadside, depending on their location on the trucks.

• Boardside - The bushing closest to the deck. It is seated between the baseplate and hanger.
• Roadside - The bushing closest to the road. It is seated between the kingpin nut and hanger.

What is the function of bushings?

Truck bushings act as a cushioning layer to prevent the surrounding metal components from wearing and tearing on one another.

Bushings directly affect:

• ride stability
• turn radius
• how your board leans
• how much rebound your board has

While small truck changes can be made by loosening/tightening the kingpin nut, larger changes happen on a bushing level.

Why do bushings matter?

Swapping stock bushings for custom bushings optimized for your weight and riding style can turn your mediocre longboard into pure bliss.

While there is nothing inherently wrong with stock bushings, they're designed with the broad spectrum of riders in mind. It's a "one-size fits all" scenario. It might be fine for beginners, but when you develop your ride style, standard bushings will perform subpar to specialized ones.

Bushing shapes

Bushings come in a variety of different shapes that each serve a different purpose. While really niche shapes exist, these are the most common ones:

• Barrel
• Cone
• Stepped barrel
• Stepped cone

Barrel bushings

The barrel shape bushing is arguably the most common choice for stock setups. Barrels fill the bushing seat completely, yielding lots of stability at the expense of turnability as it limits the hanger's ability to move.

Barrel bushings are excellent for downhill or freeride longboarding, but soft ones will allow for some carving action as well as they have less resistance. Barrel bushings come in short and tall variants. The taller ones are more steerable.

Cone bushings

As the name suggests, these bushings are shaped like cones. You'll find them in short and tall variants.

Unlike barrels, the cone shape allows the hanger to move more freely. This translates to a far more responsive truck that is lively even at low speeds. If you like carving and don't care too much for speed, the cone bushing is ideal for you. Keep in mind, it is less stable than barrels at high speeds.

Short cone bushings give the hanger more freedom than the tall ones. This makes tall cones a solid midway between a barrel and short cone bushing. It is also worth mentioning that the tall variant is most commonly used with RKPs (reverse kingpin trucks) while the short ones are typically seen on TKPs (traditional kingpin trucks).

Stepped barrel bushings

Also commonly referred to as a chubby, the stepped barrel bushing provides even more stability than the regular barrel. Apart from filling out the bushing seat, it has extrusions on the sides to further support the hanger and keep it from moving a lot.

Stepped barrels are the ultimate solution for high-speed downhill racing but they also let you ride at a softer hardness than regular barrel bushings for added responsiveness without sacrificing support.

The double-stepped variation is called an eliminator and it provides the most rebound to center you'll find in a longboard bushing.

Stepped cone bushings

Also named a "freeride bushing", the stepped cone offers more stability than the typical conical bushings while adding additional support at the base due to its extruded design. Stepped cones are highly versatile and often overlooked, but they're well worth delving into.

Bushing hardness

The majority of longboard bushings are made from polyurethane with varying hardness ratings. This hardness rating is often referred to as the durometer rating (written as e.g. 65a or 85a).

The higher the durometer, the harder the urethane compound is (which results in stiffer bushings). A soft bushing is more responsive and less resistant while a hard bushing is less responsive and provides more resistance.

Getting the durometer rating right is crucial for a good ride. If you can match the hardness rating to your weight, you'll usually be golden.

If you're mixing bushing durometer ratings on the same trucks, it is usually recommended you use the harder bushing on the boardside.

Picking the right bushings

The goal is to match both bushing shapes and bushing durometer ratings to your weight and riding style. Here are some of the most common configurations for various ride styles.

Keep in mind, softer bushings will give a more responsive ride, while harder bushings will give a more stable ride with less maneuverability.

Use the information below as a general guide, not a fact sheet. Ultimately, personal preference will play a big part in your decision.

Cruising/Carving

If you want to cruise, carve or even pump your longboard, your best bet is to go with a cone/barrel setup. This combination is extremely versatile and is what you'll often find on stock gear for that reason. Typically, the cone does roadside with the barrel sitting boardside.

We recommend going with both a large cone and a large barrel unless you want a really narrow turn radius, in which case you can go with a small cone at a higher durometer.

General durometer chart for cruising/carving longboards:

Freeride

General freeriding requires a bit more stability than when you carve. However, you still need more rebound and responsiveness than super fast freeride/downhill riding. While some pros ride double conical here, the double barrel setup is recommended for beginner-intermediate riders.

If you mix durometer scores, make sure to prioritize the higher durometer barrel on the boardside.

General durometer chart for freeriding longboards (for reference):

Downhill

Downhill riding requires a restrictive setup to ensure stability at high speeds and prevent wheelbite. A double barrel combination with higher resistance is the most common choice here as it helps eliminate speed wobbles.

Downhill riding is also where softer stepped bushings become interesting. They're definitely worth experimenting with if you have time and money to invest.

General durometer chart for downhill/high-speed longboards (for reference):

Recommended Brands

There are heaps of bushing brands around. Knowing the difference between each and figuring out which is best can be a headache.

Here are some of the brands we recommend:

See on Amazon

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Related components

Bushings are only part of what makes a board ride well. Several related components work in combination with the bushings.

Bushing washers

Washers help secure bushings in their position. A washer pairing ensures the bushings are seated correctly so they can perform optimally. Washers will also help reduce wear on your bushings, ultimately giving them a longer life span.

There are various types of bushing washers, and they should be matched to the bushing shape and size.

The most common types are flat washers and cupped washers:

Cupped washers are some of the most used ones. They wrap around the edge of the bushing, restricting the ability of the bushing to cushion.

Flat washers allow for more movability but generally feel less stable.

There is no right or wrong setup. Some will swear by an all-flat washer setup, while others prefer the added support of cupped washers.

If you want to try a hybrid setup, we recommend cupped washers at the rear and a flat washer setup at the front for a blend between stability and carvability.

Pivot cup

Pivot cups (or pivot bushings) sit in the pivot hole on the baseplate, holding the extruded part of the hanger into place. This creates a rotational axis for the truck to turn when you lean from one side to the other.

Like bushings, they are made from urethane and have various durometer ratings and come in a variety of sizes. Like with bushings, you should try to match them to your weight and riding style. Harder pivot cups aid in stability and high-speed riding while the softer ones are better for cruising.

Frequently asked questions

Longboard pumping explained

Why should you learn to pump your longboard?

If you’re doing long-distance skating, pumping is a great skill to have. It allows you to take a break from pushing, and instead use high-speed carving to move forward. When you’re long distances, it's an effective way to take a break, but ensure you’re still covering ground.

Some people even build setups specifically for pumping. This allows you to pump for miles on end. 

And finally, it’s simply a fun skill to have. It’s a great way to engage with and enjoy your skateboard and ultimately develop a better feel for your board. 

When I’m out skating, I'll try to pump whatever longboard I am riding. It’s just a fun thing to do and it feels great. Nothing beats the satisfying feeling of pumping for miles without touching the ground.

It’s also super interesting to see what will or won’t pump well - unfortunately, not every longboard will work great for pumping.

However, if you have the skill and experience, you likely can pump just about any board. With your skill, you will be able to keep up the rhythm and the weight distribution and placement requirements you need to get the board to pump.

A skilled longboarder can pump just about any longboard. If you're experienced enough, you'll be able to adapt to more difficult setups and find the right rhythm, weight distribution, and foot placement.

However, if your longboard isn't optimized for pumping and you don't have a lot of experience, it is going to be hard to learn and completely nail the technique. More on that later.

How to pump your longboard

Let's get into the nitty-gritty of how to pump your longboard effectively.

The basics of longboard pumping - how it works

In its essence, longboard pumping is just carving left and right aggressively. By carving aggressively, we get our trucks to change direction quickly. This quick change in direction generates forward momentum, leading to more speed.

To make pumping easy and effective, you either need the skill to carve your setup quickly or simply ride your trucks loose so they are more responsive to direction change. In an optimal scenario, you'd have both.

Let's cover the skill half of longboard pumping first.

1. How you dig into your board is key for pumping - how to turn aggressively

How aggressively you can turn your board is key for pumping.

If we want to turn our board in a smooth leisurely way, we simply place a bit our weight on our toes or our heels, and the board will turn in the corresponding direction.

If we want to turn our board aggressively, we place a lot of our weight on our toes or heels, and the board turns a lot quicker.

Now for pumping, we want to turn super aggressively. We need to place a ton of weight and force it into our heels or toes. So, here is how to dig a ton of weight into the board.

2. We mainly want to turn off our front foot

We need to be able to pump primarily off our front foot, or at least ensure most of the turning is coming from the front truck.

The aggressive turning of the front truck is what generates the majority of the forward momentum.

So as you turn aggressively based on the instructions above, make sure you are driving into your front foot primarily, leaving less weight on the back foot.

High-angle / low-angle truck setups

Some pumping setups have high-angle trucks in the front, and low-angle trucks in the rear. 

This allows the skateboard to mostly turn from the front - almost like the way a car turns, with the front wheels turning and the back wheels only following.

These setups are significantly easier to pump than the average setup - where both trucks are at the same angle and turn the same amount.

A surf skateboard is a good example of this. They have that obnoxiously turny front truck and a comparatively unturny rear truck. They do pump quite easily for this very reason.

3. Rhythm is key

Once you learn the basics of driving your weight into the board to turn, rhythm is the next key thing to learn.

Shifting force from left to right in a consistent manner will allow you to build up speed when pumping. If you're only hitting your technique right every two or three pumps, you'll struggle to accelerate.

Every board has its own rhythm so it’s hard to say exactly what is right. It’s up to you to figure it out by developing a feel for your particular hardware and setup.

Initially, figuring out the perfect rhythm may be difficult, but it gets much easier the more experienced you get.

4. Not every longboard is good for pumping

Pumping is a fairly niche discipline and the average longboard isn’t optimized for it.

However, there are several things you can do to make your longboard better for pumping.

Tag on below!

How to make your longboard pumpable

With the right tweaking, most longboards will be capable to pump to some degree. Let's talk about the optimum setup for pumping.

What makes a longboard good for pumping?

Generally speaking, a longboard with a rather loose front truck will be good for pumping.  But, the average longboard isn’t good for pumping for two main reasons:

1. Standard front and back trucks turn the same amount
2. Standard bushings keep your trucks relatively stiff. These bushings prevent the truck from being able to turn quickly enough to allow for pumping.

If we want to pump well at all, there are several things we need to address some several problems by optimizing the hardware.

Disadvantages of making your longboard good for pumping

Before jumping into hardware changes, we want to note, that optimizing a longboard for pumping has its drawbacks.

If we make our boards turn mostly from the front, we lose the ability to ride them backward.  We’ll only be able to ride our longboard well in one direction, and if you enjoy riding switch, or fakie, this is an obvious disadvantage.

But that aside, there are many advantages to having a fairly locked rear truck while having more play in the front. Namely, stability, a more confidence-inspiring experience, and a more “playful” ride. 

Personally, most of my favorite longboards have more play at the front, and I do not miss riding switch in the slightest.

Tuning longboards for better pumping

From easiest to hardest, below are some tuning tricks we can use to make our boards better for pumping.

1. Top mount beats drop-through trucks

Top-mounted trucks are superior for pumping. They have a higher pivot point and better aerodynamics for pumping than drop-throughs.

Top mounts are also taller than drop-throughs. The increased height allows you to drive more force into the trucks, resulting in stronger pumps with less effort.

You can still pump drop-throughs, drop mounts, or even double drops, but it won't be anywhere near as efficient. It takes a lot more effort and requires almost perfect technique.

2. Mess around with your washers and bushings

Washers and bushings are relatively cheap, so they're an easy way to optimize your pump setup.

Change the washers only

If you flip the roadside washer of your front truck, it will turn more than the back truck because the bushings have a bit more freedom to compress. 

You can also tighten your back truck by a full turn off the kingpin nut to reduce how easily it turns by a bit. This can make pumping a bit easier.

Change the washers and get different bushings 

You can buy softer aftermarket bushings for your front truck and harder ones for your back truck. Alternately, you can buy more voluminous bushings for your back truck so you still get a nice playful squish that compresses, instead of the rough feel of harder bushings.

For example, on my Landyachtz Drop Hammer. I used a softer Cone/Barrel combination in the front truck and a Barrel/Barrel combination in the back truck.

I also considered more voluminous bushings in the back truck like a Venom Barrical, but I didn’t want to fully commit this board to a pumping-only setup.

I know I haven’t touched on what durometer I used, but that is very user- and brand-specific. Most brands have independent durometer charts much like a size M t-shirt can be different from one brand to another.

3. Use different trucks with different angles

With RKP (reverse kingpin) trucks, you can buy them with different turning angles.

The angle of a truck describes how much a truck turns when compared to its lean. The higher the angle, the less lean you need for the same turn. For example, you can get a 50° Caliber III front truck and a 44° Caliber III rear truck. The high-angled front truck will outturn the low-angled rear truck due to its angle.

In most cases, you will need to buy after-market bushings to ensure the best performance out of your trucks, as most of these trucks come with fairly hard 90a bushings. Ideally, you need bushings of different hardnesses if you use two different angle trucks - more on this later.

However, with the majority of TKP (traditional kingpin) trucks, you will need to use wedge risers to change their angles - more on wedge risers below.

4. Mess around with your bushings, washers, and wedging

If you want to go beyond just the washers and bushings, you can also add wedge risers to your setup.

What do wedge risers do?

Wedge risers change the angle of your trucks. 

How to use wedge risers

Wedge risers have a fat end and a thin end. They're typically installed between the trucks and the deck.

• De-wedging - If you place the fat end under the pivot side, you reduce the angle of your truck.
• Wedging - If you place the fat end under the kingpin side, you increase the angle of your truck.

The increase in ride height varies between wedge risers so do note this.

You need different bushings for different angle trucks

If your trucks are of different angles, for example, 50° in front and 35° in the back. You will need different bushings.

This is because trucks with different angles work bushings differently. An 85a bushing in a 50° truck will feel stiffer than the same 85a bushing in a 35° truck, where it feels quite soft.

This is because the 50° truck doesn’t have as much leverage as the 35* truck, so it doesn’t work the bushing as hard. 

So, you will need harder bushings in the 35° truck to keep it from feeling too soft.

For example, I would use soft 85a bushings in the 50° truck, and harder 93a bushings in the 35° truck. This has worked well for me in the past.

Examples of boards that use wedge risers

The Comet Cruiser

The Comet cruiser is a good example of a board that uses wedge risers. 

It uses 7° Paris wedge risers on Paris TKP (traditional kingpin) trucks, effectively changing the angle to be +7° in the front and -7° in the back. 

It then uses soft 83a cone bushings for the front truck and harder 88a cone bushings for the rear truck.

This setup makes the board super turny and super pumpable.

My setup

I use a Landyachtz Ripper and have set it up to be good for pumping and general fun.

I have a 50° front truck and a 40° rear truck, de-wedged to 35°. This gives me 50/35° angles.
I’m using 130 mm wide Bear Gen 6 RKP (reverse kingpin) trucks on it.

I then use 78a/85a soft barrel bushings for the front truck, and harder 93a/93a barrel bushings for the rear truck.

I have a flat washer in the front truck and cupped washers in the rear truck.

This setup is pumpable and super fun to ride.

Is it hard to make your custom setup?

If you understand the various moving parts that go into making a pump-optimized setup, no it is not hard.

However, there is a bit of trial and error, and - more importantly - you have to get a board under your feet to feel the road and develop your own technique. Just like people have different running techniques, your pumping technique will vary ever so slightly from others.

A setup that works well for one person may be suboptimal for another. It comes down to variables that exceed the hardware of the board itself and thus you really have to get out there and try various setups to find the ideal one for you.

5. Buy a setup tuned for pumping

Some companies make longboards that work well for pumping out of the box. 

If you're looking to make pumping your main style of riding or you have some money to splurge, it may be worthwhile to get a prebuilt complete designed for the cause.

However, you may find yourself spending anywhere from $250-$1000 for one of these setups - depending on the quality of the hardware.

There are definitely money-saving and knowledge-gaining incentives to building your own, but it doesn't make pre-tuned boards any less viable.

There's a lot to choose from and it’s worth joining the LDP community for more advice on what to get. It’s beyond the scope of this article to break down which is best and why.

Get out there, and do some pumping!

I hope this article has been useful to describe the basics of pumping, how to do it, and what longboard setups work best for it.  

Practice, trial, and error, and trying different things, are all key components to successful pumping so don't give up just because you don't get it right on the first try. Perseverance is an important part of it. 

Carving on a longboard is a great way to enjoy riding. Not only does it help by practicing turning, it can also aid in the ability to shed some speed when riding down a hill! Carving is a basic technique but it is crucial you pick it up and become comfortable with it to improve as a longboarder.

This guide will walk you through the steps to get started and understand how you can get out there and start carving on your board today!

Step 1: Make Sure Your Longboard Is Set

You can carve on any longboard or skateboard, but using a longboard is an ideal setup for carving because of the range of motion of the trucks and the grip of the typically larger wheels.

Make sure your board is in working condition by checking that;

• the wheels are secured properly
• the wheels spin freely
• the trucks are set to a medium tightness
• the deck is not cracked or broken

Step 2: Learn The Difference Between Toeside & Heelside

Toeside: Where your toes will be located on your board

Heelside: Where your heels will be located on your board

Step 3: Take An Active Stance

When you ride your board it’s essential to have an active stance if you plan to carve. Having an active stance means bending both of your knees.

Bending both of your knees allows you to flexibly feel the longboard and adjust your position and shift your weight more accurately when you begin to carve.

If you do not do this, carving will not feel very natural and it may actually be more difficult to learn.

Step 4: Start With Turning

Before you can start carving, it’s good to know how to simply turn your longboard to either side. Remember to keep an active stance while you practice this!

Your board steers by leaning and shifting your weight - the harder you lean, the harder the longboard will turn. Practice turning left or right and get comfortable with just focusing on turning in one direction.

You may notice that turning one way might be easier than the other, this is normal for beginners. It’s good to get comfortable turning both ways before you really get started with putting them together.

Step 5: Start Carving!

Carving is just turning left and right in a fluid fashion with some pressure behind your feet. Start off slowly on a flat surface - not a hill - and simply turn your longboard left to right or right to left.

To initiate a turn you will be applying pressure to your toeside for one turn and heelside for the next or vice versa. Preference is big here, if you prefer to initiate on your heelside or toeside first, this is up to you.

It’s quite normal to be more comfortable turning one way over the other, but in order to really carve you’ll need to get a hang of both.

A Quick Recap

Carving can take some time to learn, but it’s one of the best ways to feel the longboard and the road.

Skateboarding got its start from surfing the pavement and surfers wanted to create what they felt on a wave to something on the ground. Find a big open road, parking lot, or other smooth flat surface and skate!

Take small and gradual steps to challenge yourself only when you feel ready to advance but don't be scared to push your boundaries to improve.

Tips To Keep In Mind When Learning To Carve

Don't Skimp On Safety

Safety equipment like knee pads, elbow pads, gloves, wrist guards, and most importantly - a helmet - are always a good idea. Not only will it keep you safe, it'll also make you more confident in your ability to progress faster.

Use Your Arms

Remember to keep an active stance and don’t be afraid to use your arms out by your sides to help with balance. As you get more comfortable, you can start to use your arms less.

Gradually Increase Carving Power

Carve harder and deeper with more power behind your feet once you feel comfortable. Beware the board can lose traction if you carve too hard or if the road is wet.

Get Used To A Run

Check your surroundings: If you decide to navigate a hill, it’s best to start towards the bottom and work your way up. Carving can only cut down so much speed so don’t go down a hill you can’t stop on.

Be Happy!

Keep a positive attitude! Skateboarding is all about fun. If you aren’t getting the hang of carving, go back to riding in a straight line or focus on turning in one direction. Some learn faster than others, but mastering carving is possible for everyone in due time.

Don't Ride Your Trucks Too Loose Or Tight

The tightness of your trucks has a direct impact on your carving ability.

If they're too tight, carving will take too much power to the point where it is counterproductive for a beginner.

If they're too loose, they'll be unforgiving for a beginner to ride and you'll struggle with stability.

The solution is simple. Ride your trucks at medium tightness to begin with. This gives you the best foundation for learning how to carve. You can explore different truck setups to see what you like best as you get comfortable.

How do you choose the best skateboard helmet? In this guide, we’ll take a close look at ten of our favorite picks, including the best overall, best premium helmet, and best budget helmet. We’ll also cover buying considerations to keep in mind and frequently asked questions. We love skating and want everyone to have the best, safest experience possible.  

Top 10 Skateboard Helmet Picks 

There are lots of skateboard helmets, but which are the best ones? Here are our top 10 picks. 

This helmet from Triple Eight has all the essential features and safety certifications necessary for a safe, fun ride. It meets both the U.S. CPSC Bike and ASTM F-1492 Skate safety standards, which means you can use it for cycling, skateboarding, or roller skating.

The classic design is low profile, so if you’re concerned about a bulky appearance, don’t be. Inside, there’s EPS foam designed to handle high impacts and a Sweatsaver liner. This boasts extra thick and soft padding for great comfort. The thin liners are already installed. Thicker removable aligners are also included.

You can get two different sets of removable liners to ensure a customized fit. If you want more in different colors or a different size, Triple Eight sells Sweatsaver replacement liners on their website. This patented material is designed to reduce the stains and smells that come from sweat. Adjustable straps with side release buckles also ensure the right fit. The skateboard helmet is available in four sizes and a variety of colors.

This Triple Eight helmet offers impressive features if you have a few extra bucks at your disposal. The outer shell is vented ABS plastic, which is lightweight but durable. ABS shell lids are molded, not glued, which improves the quality.

Inside, you’ve got the patented Conehead EPS liner, which provides great airflow and protection. Combining an ABS outer shell and EPS foam liners creates a very tough helmet that stays lightweight. The helmet meets both CPSC and ASTM safety standards, so you can wear it for biking and skating. The other noteworthy feature? It uses MIPS, which stands for “multi-directional impact protection system.” The idea is that MIPS helmets help reduce dangerous and harmful rotational forces during a crash.

If maximum safety is your primary concern, the Gotham Triple Eight helmet is a good choice. It also offers two sets of washable and Sweatsaver removable pads. To adjust your helmet, use the dial system and adjustable chin strap with a side release buckle.

Don’t want to spend a lot of money on a skateboarding helmet? This option from Pro-Tec provides the protection you need in a fairly affordable package. It has a high-impact ABS shell with a certified EPS foam liner.

It’s certified to ASTM F1492/1447 standards, which means it’s acceptable for skating and skateboarding. This Pro-Tec classic is also certified for CPSC 1203 and CE 1078. It can handle multiple impacts.

For added comfort, there are compression-molded liner pads and 11 vents. If you tend to sweat a lot while skating, those vents will help keep your head nice and cool. Adjust the fit with the helmet straps and secure-locking buckle.

Designed especially for a child's head, the LIL 8 has all the features you’d expect from Triple Eight in a smaller (and cheaper) size. It meets CPSC and ASTM F1492 standards, so it’s acceptable for cycling, skating, and skateboarding.

It’s built from a durable but lightweight ABS shell and EPS foam liner. The Sweatsaver fit pads help with the helmet’s fit, so your child will feel comfortable wearing it for long periods of time. These interchangeable pads also help reduce sweat stains and smells. Thinner liners come already installed in the helmet, while the removable thicker ones can be added or removed as desired.

The fit dial at the back of the helmet and “Pinch Saver” padded chin straps ensure you get a comfortable, snug fit. The Triple Eight LIL 8 will fit kids with a head circumference between 18-20 inches. Generally, that means kids up to 5 years old. 

Are your kids new to skateboarding? Here’s our guide on how to get better at skating! 

The Bell Sanction is a full-face helmet, which makes it stand out on this list. Why did we pick this for electric skateboarding? It's more dangerous than regular skateboarding. Because of the high speeds, crashes can be much more severe.

You want to protect your whole head and face. While it’s technically certified for cycling and BMX bikes, it will work for electric skateboarding, too. It’s got a durable ABS shell, so it stays lightweight at 850 grams. It’s got a lower profile, too, so if you usually find e-skateboarding helmets too big, this is a good option.

The other neat feature is the adjustable visor. On clear days, you can shield your eyes from the bright sun and reflective surfaces like cars. There are some vents, but some reviews say there aren’t quite enough if you sweat a lot. Sizes range from extra-small (49-50 cm) to large (58-60 cm). 

A beautifully crafted helmet, this is a great choice for riders looking for something less sporty and more sophisticated. It’s a unisex helmet, too, so it fits everyone’s style. Colors include navy, coastal blue, daybreak red, and rose gold.

The “leather” straps are vegan and made from sustainable microfiber. Continuing in this vein, the company has partnered with Climate Neutral to offset its carbon emissions. They strive for a mindful supply chain and sustainable packaging.

This helmet isn’t only good-looking and environmentally-minded, however. It’s got all the needed certifications like CE 1078, CPSC safety standards, and ASTM F1492, so it's a good bike helmet as well as a skate helmet. If you need to leave the helmet behind somewhere, there’s a patent-pending PopLock.

This is a great feature for city-dwellers. To get the perfect fit, use the Dial Fit System at the back of the helmet. Three cooling channels and seven air vents keep you cool. 

We picked the Bell Sport Segment as the best skateboard helmet with a no-frills, classic design. It has the bowl-style you’d expect, but with important updates that help the helmet fit more comfortably.

It has more flexibility, so it won’t feel as rigid as classic helmets of the past. Why? It uses interior EPS foam segments connected by a reinforcing skeleton. It’s comparable to how a cap would fit on your head. As for safety, it’s certified for both skating and biking.

It weighs 410 grams and comes with 8 vents for a cool ride experience. There aren’t any fancy features, but if you’re looking for a very simple and affordable helmet, this is a good choice. 

Another unique product from the Thousand brand, this skateboarding helmet for men and women offers a handful of great features. It’s built with MIPS, which adds an extra layer of protection against head trauma and brain injuries. MIPS works by reducing rotational forces during a crash. To reduce glare and increase your field of vision, the helmet has a visor.

You can choose from a hand-painted tortoise shell, metallic rose gold, or a simple matte black. The other feature we really liked (and that made this helmet our pick for best low-light riding) is the multi-use magnetic light. The 30-lumen USB rechargeable taillight turns on automatically when attached to the back of the helmet. Skateboarding at night is inherently riskier than in the daylight, but if you need to do it, this light is extremely helpful.

Riding on a warm day? You’ll appreciate the 8 vents that keep your head cool. For riders who leave their helmets behind on their bikes, there’s the convenient PopLock. Behind the logo mark, there’s a hidden channel where you can thread your U-lock or chain lock. 

Available in a wide range of colors, this skateboard helmet is a great pick for kids, teens, or adults. It’s got a dual ASTM and CPSC safety rating, so it’s acceptable for biking, skating, and skateboarding.

It’s made from an ABS outer shell and EPS core, ensuring the helmet’s durability and ability to protect you from trauma. It also comes with two removable liners so you can get the exact right fit. When the liners become sweaty, you can pop them in the washer. Speaking of sweat, the helmet also comes with a smooth ventilation system with an impressive 12 vents.

If you live in a hot climate and hate helmets because of how hot they get, the Outdoor Master is a good choice. Choose from colors like subtle black and gray or bolder shades like lemon, orange, mint green, or pink. The price is pretty affordable at around $50 or so. To adjust the helmet, use the adjustment dial and adjustable chin strap.

Exclusive deal: 15% off using coupon code "ERIDEHERO" at checkout.

This helmet is almost the same as the other Triple Eight Gotham on our list, but it does not have MIPS. As a certified helmet with the CPSC standard and ASTM F1492 safety standard, it's still very safe. That makes it acceptable for biking, skateboarding, and skating.

It features a Conehead liner construction made from unique collapsing cones that absorb energy and distribute force sideways. The outside is made from an ABS plastic shell with vents, which gives you a cool, lightweight experience. The foam inside is EPS. For added comfort, there are two sets of removable, moisture-wicking Sweatsaver Fit Pads.

You can be confident that this skateboard helmet protects you and gives you a comfortable fit. To make sure the helmet fits perfectly, use the Adjustable Fit Dial System with a reflective dial. Choose from colors like Baja light blue, Black, Blue Matte, Cream, White, and Gun (gray).

Buying Considerations 

We picked ten great skateboard helmets, but what are the most important traits to consider when shopping for the best skateboard helmet?

What safety gear do you use? *

• Helmet
• Knee pads
• Elbow pads
• Wrist guards
• Gloves
• Vest/body armor
• None of the above

Vote

Knowing what features matter most in terms of style, safety, or construction helps you make a better decision. Here are seven buying considerations: 

Style

Most helmets don’t vary too much in design, but there are three main kinds: classic, full-cut, and full-face.

Classic skate helmets are the most common and what most people imagine when they think of helmets. They cover your head from the middle of your forehead back to your neckline. They have cutouts for your ears and proper ventilation holes at the back, top, and front. These tend to be lightweight.

Full-cut helmets offer more coverage, so they’re a bit heavier. They fully cover your ears and further down your neck.

The last type is the full-face helmet. These offer the most protection and are generally recommended for fast electric skateboards or downhill skating/longboarding. In this category, you'll find motorcycle-style helmets, but we recommend a mountain-bike downhill type of helmet like the Bell Sanction instead as it is better vented, lighter and provides better vision.

Safety certifications

Helmet safety is very important. Some cheap helmets won’t have certifications, so while they can protect from minor falls and skull fractures, they don’t protect against concussions or more serious trauma. The safest skateboard helmets comply with standards.

In the United States, you’ll see CPSC 1203 Certified (a skate/bike helmet certification), ASTM F-1492 Certified (a skate/roller helmet certification), and ASTM F1447 (a bike/roller certification). In Europe, CE EN 1078 applies to skate and bike helmets.

There is no skateboard standard in Australia and New Zealand, but AS/NZS 2063:2008 applies to bike and scooter helmets.

To receive a safety certification, helmets have to pass certain tests. If a helmet is rated for single-impact, it means it can protect during one impact and then needs to be replaced. Multi-impact helmets protect against a few low impacts.

Fit 

Before buying a helmet, you want to be sure it fits. Even the best skateboard helmets will have limited head protection if you're wearing the wrong size.

If you’re at a store and able to try on a bunch of helmets, you probably don’t need to measure your head circumference. If you’re ordering online, however, you'll definitely want to measure your head circumference.

1. Get a flexible measuring tape
2. Wrap the measuring tape around your head so it lays across the middle of your forehead, about one inch above the eyebrows
3. Adjust the measuring tape so it stays level all the way around your head
4. Mark where the tape meets the other end with your fingers
5. Keep this measurement on hand when shopping for helmets

Sizing matters for other essential safety gear, like knee and elbow pads. Check out our guides here and here for more information on choosing skateboard elbow and knee pads. 

Outer and inner shell

Most good skateboard helmets will use a hard-shell exterior. ABS plastic is probably the most common outer shell material in the world thanks to its durability. On helmets, ABS is injection-molded to the inner foam, which protects the foam from scratches and other damage.

EPS foam liner is the standard. Lightweight and hard, EPS foam liners take on most of the impact of a crash, dissipating and protecting your skull from the resulting energy. These foam liners are found in most certified helmets. You can also find comfort liners inside a helmet. These can feature technologies like sweat-wicking properties, so you’re more comfortable. Some of these liners are even washable. 

 Ventilation

A big reason why many skaters don’t like helmets is that they make their heads too hot. Proper ventilation makes a big difference. In general, the fancier (and therefore more expensive) the helmet, the better the ventilation. You’ll get the best ventilation in helmets between $70-$200, while in the $35-$70 range you’ll get slightly less. There are also situations where you might not want much ventilation. If you’re living in a cooler climate or don’t sweat as much, you can get a cheaper helmet with less ventilation.

 Price

Speaking of price, you can find good skateboarding helmets on just about any budget. That’s good news if you don’t want to spend a lot but care about safety. As helmets go up in price, they have extra features you may or may not want. On our list, prices ranged from about $40 to $135.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Thoughts 

Many skateboarders don’t wear helmets. Sometimes they have a specific reason like they haven’t found a comfortable one or they don’t like how they look. Others may recognize the importance of a helmet in theory, but just don’t think about it because they’ve never experienced a serious crash. Unfortunately, it takes just one bad accident without a helmet to change your life for the worse.

If you're not convinced, hear it from pro-skater Andy Anderson and see just how devastating leaving the helmet on the shelf was for 19-year-old Aidan Shellings (who is now beating the odds and making a fantastic recovery) in the video below:

In this guide, we presented you with ten great helmet options from brands like Triple Eight, Thousand, Bell, and more. They all meet safety certifications and are acceptable for a variety of sports, not just skateboarding. By getting one good helmet, you can make your experiences roller-skating, bike riding, and skateboarding significantly safer.

We also covered buying considerations if you want to understand what makes the best skateboard helmets the best. There are the safety ratings, of course, as well as the style, fit, outer shell, proper ventilation, and price. 

In many places, you’re required by law to wear a helmet. Even if you’re not, you should wear one anyway. As soon as the skateboard helmet starts to show signs of wear-and-tear or you’ve been in an accident, you should replace the helmet. If you never crash, the helmet will probably need to be replaced in five years or so, depending on how well it’s held up.

In general, good helmets will cost between $40-$135, though the buying considerations are a better guide to quality than the price. Thanks to improved technology and the variety of helmet brands out there, you can pretty easily find the best skateboard helmet that will keep you safe!

There are all kinds of riding styles, board shapes, sizes and parts to choose from. It can be overwhelming! In this guide, we break down twelve of the best boards for freeriding, commuting, carving, and more.

Next, we’ll dig into how to pick the best skateboard based on factors like your riding style, the deck, trucks, and wheels. Still have questions? We’ll close out by answering the most frequently asked ones about skateboards. Let’s get started: 

The Top 12 Best Skateboards

If you're on the hunt for a freeride style board, the Sector 9 Fault Line Perch may be the one of your dreams. It features 9-ply maple wood construction with exposed Teak at the bottom. To lower your center of gravity, it uses a flush-mount drop-down deck with dimensions of 39.5’’ and 9.75”. The flares let you lock your feet in while the skateboard deck top-mounted on the trucks makes it easier to take turns and stay stable. The wheelbase is 29.0’’-31.0’’. 

As for the other components, the Perch has large 70mm 78a Nineballs (wheels), 1.25’’ hardened steel bolts, and extremely sturdy 10.0’’ Gullwing Reverse Trucks. The free grip tape is extra coarse, so you can rest assured your feet will stick to the board.

There are also ABEC 5 Blaze Bearings, which are made from stainless steel and designed for easy cleaning. Sector 9 uses these bearings to keep the number of parts to a minimum.

At almost 40 inches, it’s just long enough to fall into the best range for freeriding, though it is also a beast for downhill and commuting! Cost-wise, it’s a bit on the pricier end, but it should last a long time thanks to its high-quality components. This skateboard is a good fit for beginners, but riders of all experiences will enjoy the board’s versatility.

Freeriding is a skateboard style that combines downhill skating with tricks. Because this style is challenging, wrist injuries are common. Check out our article on the best skateboard wrist guards. 

For beginners who don’t want to spend a lot of money, the Santa Cruz Classic Dot is a great choice. The 7.25-wide option features a shallow concave board, which provides better stability for those learning how to balance. The 99A wheels are on the smaller size at 52mm. They work well for street skating and performing tricks.

To make the board accessible to more people, you can get the deck in a variety of widths: 7.25, 7.5, 7.8, 8, and 8.25. If you want to focus on tricks, one of the narrower widths will work best. For a better all-around experience, try the 7.8 or 8-inch board. If you want to start with stability, go with the 8.25-inch deck. It can hold up to 220 pounds. 

Speaking of the skateboard deck, it’s made from 7-ply maple wood and epoxy. It has a classic double kicktail design. The polyurethane wheels use ABEC-3 bearings, so they’re designed for good abrasion resistance, high elasticity, and good shock absorption. You’ll notice the rating is lower on the Cruzer than some of the other skateboards on this list, but it doesn’t really affect the board’s quality. The trucks have standard kingpins, standard hangers, and tough 90A bushings. 

This board from the Drift Bamboo Collection features beautiful graphics from artist Nate Reifke, but it’s much more than its mesmerizing looks. The drop-thru Mini Lookout Wreckage, designed for carving and commuting, has a 5-ply bamboo skateboard deck, caramelized bamboo inlay stringers on the top ply, and solid components.

The trucks are 10-inch Gullwing Chargers, while the 72mm 78a Nineballs wheels come with ABEC 5 Greaseball bearings. The 78a Nineball wheels are soft, which is perfect for rolling over the bumps and cracks you’re bound to encounter while commuting. The softness makes the ride much smoother. The board also has 1.125’’ Truss Head Steel bolts and clear grip tape. 

The Wreckage is 37.5 inches long and 9.25 inches wide. Compared to many other longboards, it’s a small board, which is why it’s called “Mini.” It still provides the rider with the stability necessary for long commutes. It costs a pricey $200, but if you want a high-quality commuting board with stunning artwork, you’ll be happy with the Mini Lookout Wreckage. 

Cruiser boards give you skateboarding in its purest form - the breeze in your face, open road in front of you. The Santa Cruz Street Cruzer is a durable, reliable board with a traditional 7-ply maple wood construction.

Because the board uses the standard construction that has gone through the test of time, you can be confident that it’s good quality for a reasonable price. The high-quality Krux trucks are designed for making precise, stable turns, while the ABEC 5 shielded bearings are smooth and fast. The wheels are 60mm, which is a good medium size for a smooth, stable ride. 60mm is a nice size for beginners, too. The 78a rating means the wheels are fairly soft, which is ideal for riding over uneven roads. With hard wheels, you’d feel every bump. 

We like this complete skateboard for cruising, though it’s also a great choice for beginners and younger riders. It measures just over 29 inches long and 8.79 inches wide. Because the trucks are on the shorter side, it lowers your center of gravity. You’ll find it easier to balance. 

Carving is like surfing but without the waves. Technically, you can use any longboard for carving, but it’s easier when the board has a good amount of deck flex.

We absolutely love the Chamber Vortex, an 8-ply maple board from Sector 9 designed for carving. It’s part of the Tropic Teak Collection, so it features exposed Teak wood on the bottom and a stunning graphic of koi swimming over a spiral design.

The flush-mount drop-thru deck, a favorite from this brand, uses ultra-reliable 9-inch Gullwing Sidewinder II trucks. These are specifically designed for carving and cruising. They feature premium 89a cone and barrel combo bushings. Because the trucks are made for carving, you should not use this board for downhill skating. 

As for the wheels, they’re 69mm Nineballs. They have a 78a rating, which is the most popular durometer for longboard wheels. They ensure a soft ride over rough terrain. The bearings are ABEC 5 Greaseballs.

The deck shape is worth mentioning, too, as it makes this skateboard stand out from Sector 9’s other offerings. It’s not the cheapest option (it’s about $200 before shipping), but if you’re looking for a unique board designed for smooth carving, the Chamber Vortex is the best skateboard out there in our opinion. 

Available in different sizes, this skateboard is a fine choice if you want to keep your riding options open. Whether you want to try street skating, flip tricks or anything in between, the Element Section offers a classic, reliable ride.

The sizes range from 31.25’’ to 32’’ in length, while the width starts at 7.5’’ and goes up to 8.25’’. The wheelbases for the 7.5" and 7.75" widths are 14 inches, while the other options provide a 14.25" wheelbase. The deck is made from a Featherlight high-quality 7-ply maple construction, which consists of thin wood veneers pressed with special glue. This keeps the board light (which you need for tricks), but without compromising strength.

The trucks are 100% stainless steel with 60mm 78a 100% polyurethane wheels. The softer wheels roll a bit slower than harder ones, but they have a better grip. The ball bearings have an ABEC 5 rating. Price-wise, this is a very affordable skateboard! It tops out at around $100 when it’s not on sale. As a complete skateboard, it comes with everything you need including the wheels, ⅛’’ riser pads, trucks, and clear grips. 

1970s Southern California inspired this drop-thru skateboard. It’s got a black maple bottom veneer, die-cut colored maple inlay, and drop rocker mold. The sharp rails help provide great control and extra grip.

Moving away from the skateboard deck, you’ll find 10-inch Gullwing Reverse trucks, 70mm 78a Nineballs, and ABEC 5 Blaze Bearings with built-in spacers. These nicely-sized, softer wheels are excellent for acceleration and grip. You’ll also get a nice grip from the extra coarse tape. Why reverse trucks? These sit lower than standard trucks and ensure a stable ride. This is important for going downhill riding. You can also find reverse trucks on boards designed for cruising and freestyle, so this board is a good choice for those, too. 

In terms of size, the Dropper Mosaic is what you’d expect from longboards. It’s 41 inches long, 9.625 inches wide, with a wheelbase of 29 inches. That makes it one of the longest skateboards on this list. Downhill skating can be tricky, so be careful if you’re a beginner and always wear safety gear. 

This board works for just about everyone, including kids! The reason we picked this particular board for children is the low price. It’s a great choice for a kid who is interested in skateboarding but doesn’t know if they’ll love it yet.

If they end up deciding skateboarding isn’t what they expected, you wouldn’t have spent an arm and a leg. The Hiboy Alpha has a 7-layer Canadian maple deck that holds up to 220 pounds. It has a double kicktail concave design, 5-inch metal alloy trucks, PU bushings, ABEC 11 bearings. 

The wheels are 54mm 95a Hiboy graphic wheels, which ensure a smooth ride. 95a wheels are on the harder side, so they provide high speeds with a bit of grip for rough surfaces. You get a good grip on the deck itself, too, with the high-density 80AB emery non-slip grip tape. At 31'' x 8'', this is a versatile, wider board that's great for cruising, sliding, and doing tricks. It’s also fairly light at just 4.6 pounds, which helps make this our top pick for the best skateboard for kids. 

Part of the Sector 9 brand's Signature Collection, this complete board is perfect for park skating and cruising. It features a Pro Model classic shape and black-and-white illustrations by artist Daniel Sheridan. This double-kick Sector 9 consists of a 7-ply maple skateboard deck, printed grip tape, and neon ink bottom art. For the components, we start with the 61mm 78a Nineballs. This durometer rating is on the soft side for skate parks, but it’s also designed for cruising, which is why these wheels aren’t as hard as other skate park boards.

The bearings are ABEC 5 Greaseballs. 8.5-inch Gullwing Shadow Trucks and hardened steel bolts round out the rest of the components. Shadow trucks use a traditional kingpin style, which makes them ideal for skating parks and cruising. To extend the truck’s life, there’s extra aluminum on the grinding surface. At around $150, this is one of the more affordable Sector 9 skateboards on this list. 

Cheap skateboards can have questionable quality, but this affordable option doesn’t skimp on the important specs. The deck is made from 7-ply Canadian maple and boasts a medium concave, so it’s a good choice for a variety of riding styles.

The components consist of high-quality Havoc trucks and ABEC 7 bearings. Havoc trucks are made from materials like maple and aluminum alloy, so they’re durable but still lightweight. The wheels are 52mm 99a, which is a harder durometer and good for all-around park and tricks skating. Everything is fitted perfectly, so you can start riding the board right out of the box. 

Because of this board’s good deck and components, it’s a strong choice if you don’t want to spend much money on a big skateboard brand, but you're still concerned about quality. It’s unlikely to last as long as some of the more expensive boards out there, but it works well as the first skateboard for a beginner on a budget. You can also swap out and upgrade some of the components if you want to be sure they’ll last longer. 

What are pintail boards? These longboards are designed for relaxed cruising and carving. You can recognize them by their distinct shape. The Hana longboard from Magneto has a classic deck with wheel cuts in the bottom of the deck. This prevents “wheel bite,” which is when the wheels contact the board during a stop and mess up your balance.

The deck also has a subtle W-concave that helps you lock your feet in place. It’s made from an 8-layer laminate with a hard maple core and bamboo top and bottom. As for the components, there are 70mm wheels with a soft 78a durometer, ABEC 5 bearings, and 7-inch gravity-cast aluminum trucks. The bushings have a medium stiffness for good stability. It comes with a skate tool, as well.

Everything about this longboard was designed for smooth, easy cruising. The wheelbase is 31-inches, which is the shortest of the Hana collection, which gives the board very responsive turning. Having a wider deck is also more comfortable while cruising. If you’re just getting into longboards, this pintail is a good choice. 

As the name implies, dropdown decks are closer to the ground. They are essentially a normal mount deck, but they have a deep drop in the middle, so you stand lower than your trucks.

This lowered platform makes these skateboard decks ideal for freeriding, cruising, and street skaters. The Low Glider from Magneto features an 8-layer laminate board made from bamboo and a hard maple core. It’s 38 inches long and 9.5 inches wide.

Moving away from the deck, the Low Glider has big 100mm polyurethane wheels equipped to handle most terrain, including bumpy roads. The 7-inch trucks are made from gravity-cast aluminum with 90a bushings. 

If you’ve always wanted skateboarding to feel like surfing, this is a great board to check out. The wheels are designed to spin longer than regular wheels, so each push gets you a good distance. Long, relaxing rides will be comfortable and easy. You even get a free skate tool with your purchase!

How To Pick The Perfect Skateboard

You may be overwhelmed with your buying decision at this point, but don't worry. We'll now help narrow down the list to a set few based on your requirements and preferred riding style.

 A Custom or Complete Skateboard?  

As the name indicates, a complete skateboard comes with everything you need right in the box. You don’t have to go out and pick the wheels or the trucks or anything like that. For beginners, a complete skateboard designed for your desired riding style is the better choice. You don’t need to worry about picking the wrong part.

It’s also better because you can get started skateboarding right away and see if you even like it. With a custom skateboard, it takes time to choose the right parts. You don’t want to spend a lot of time building a board only to find out that skateboarding isn’t your cup of tea.

The last reason? Complete skateboards are usually cheaper. Depending on the board you get, you can usually swap out certain pieces (like the wheels and trucks), so you get a taste of customization without needing to start from scratch. 

If you’re a more experienced skateboarder, a custom skateboard gives you control over each part. Keep an eye out for our upcoming article on how to assemble the perfect custom skateboard. 

Your Riding Style 

There are six main ways to ride a skateboard:

Cruising refers to long-distance riding without doing tricks or stopping. Cruiser boards designed for this style are typically shorter with a shorter nose and soft wheels, though you can cruise on just about any board.

Carving resembles surfing and involves quick turns back and forth in an S-shape. This allows the rider to build up speed.

If you use your skateboard for commuting, you want a skateboard that sits lower to the ground and is designed to travel long distances.

Cruising, carving, and commuting are good styles for a beginner to start with.

Downhill skateboarding is self-explanatory. You skateboard down a hill. Boards designed for this style require high-quality components that can handle more stress and more complex molds.

Freeriding, a form of downhill skateboarding, includes technical tricks and carving. It’s best for experienced riders.

The last riding style - park skating - is when you take your board to a skate park and perform tricks, transitions, and so on.

Trying to master your riding style and get better at skateboarding? Check out our guide on how to improve your skills. 

Components & Parts

Let's take a look at some of the main components that make up a skateboard and how they form your riding experience.

The Deck

When it comes to picking the best skateboard decks there are few factors to consider:

• Size
• Shape & concave
• Materials
• Flex

Deck sizes are nearly always measured in inches. A normal skateboard is between 28-33 inches long and 7.5-8.25 inches wide, while a longboard is between 33-59 inches and 9 inches wide. Wider boards tend to give you more stability and they’re more comfortable to stand on for long periods. If you want to focus on cruising or commuting, longboards are often better than regular skateboards.

Wider is not always better. If the deck is too wide compared to your shoe size, you'll have trouble turning, carving and controlling the board in general.

Skateboards vary in their shape, too. The “concave” refers to the longitudinal curvature of the deck. The higher the curvature, the easier it is to flip and steer the board. You can find boards with low, medium, and high concave, though for beginners, a medium concave is usually the best choice.

The nose and tail determine the shape, too. If the nose and tail are the same shape, you’re looking at a Twin-Tip or a popsicle-shape board. For years, these have been the shape for standard skateboards. Decks with more pronounced concave and curved noses/tails are designed for park or street skaters who want to do tricks. 

What about materials? Most skateboard decks are made from wood - usually Canadian maple - because of its natural durability and stability. You'll also see bamboo ever so often. Layers of the wood (usually seven) are pressed together with glue or a special epoxy resin. 

The last deck consideration - the flex - determines the board’s stiffness. This affects the shock absorbance and stability of the board at varying speeds. If you want to go fast, the best skateboard deck will have low flex to ensure stability. If you want to perform tricks, you want a thin, flexy board for responsiveness. Flexible boards are also good for cruising. With more rigid skateboard decks, you tend to feel every bump in the road.

The Trucks 

Trucks are the metal T-shaped pieces on the underside of your skateboard. They keep the wheels and bearings attached. They’re easily adjustable. Trucks have a handful of parts - the axles, hangers, kingpins, and bushings - attached via mounting hardware.

Every part matters, so choosing the right ones (especially if you’re building your own skateboard or switching the trucks on a preassembled board) is important. As an example, softer bushings ensure responsive turning while hard bushings provide the stiff turning you need for downhill skating.

The truck size is measured by the hanger or axle width, which is how far apart the wheels are. Most boards are set up so the truck axle is the same width as the deck. This is often considered the ideal setup and is what we recommend for practically all riders. This gives you more stability. For size, you can find low, mid, or high trucks. Low trucks are designed for small wheels (50-53mm) and provide stability for tricks like flip tricks. Mid-level trucks (53-56mm) work for most riders, especially park or street skateboarding. 

For most riders, mid-sized trucks work. High trucks, which work best for wheels bigger than 56mm, are great for carving, cruising, and longboarding. Most boards use aluminum hangers and steel axles. Experiencing annoying wheel bite? Riser pads (or shock pads) can be inserted between the trucks and deck to raise board.

The Wheels

Skateboard wheels use two measurements: diameter and durometer. The diameter is the wheel’s size (measured in millimeters) while the durometer indicates the wheel’s hardness. Most wheels range from 50-75mm.

Why does wheel size matter? It affects how fast you accelerate and how tight your turns are. If you want to go fast, you’ll want large wheels. Small wheels, which are lower to the ground, are better for making tight turns, performing tricks, skating at parks and accelerating faster.

For beginners (or skaters focused on cruising and commuting), the right skateboard will likely have larger wheels. Most wheels over 65mm will serve well for that as this is the transition area into longboarding wheels.

The wheel’s hardness matters, too. Most manufacturers use the Durometer A scale, which is a 100-point scale. The higher the number, the harder the wheel. The average durometer is 99a.

You may see some using the B scale, which is an 80-point scale. A wheel with a 70b durometer has the same hardness as a 90a durometer. Wheels with a higher durometer are designed for high speeds and a smoother ride. Skateparks are a good place to have harder wheels. Softer wheels provide more grip, so they’re better for street skating. 

The Ball Bearings

Ball bearings are what allow a skateboard’s wheels to turn. You can find ball bearings made from materials like steel (the skateboard industry standard), ceramic, and titanium. Ceramic and titanium bearings give your skateboard a longer lifespan, but they are more expensive.

Check out the ABEC rating on the bearings. Higher ratings mean the bearing can handle high speeds, though because skating results in relatively low RPMs, you would never need a really high ABEC. Basically, choosing a skateboard with an ABEC rating of 5 over one with a 3 rating isn’t going to make a difference in your ride or its quality. Keeping the bearings clean and rust-free is more important than anything else. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Time to clear up some of the uncertainties that many beginners have. If you don't find the answer you're looking for below, feel free to send us an e-mail and we'll try to help you to the best of our ability.

How big should a skateboard deck be? 

Whether you want a narrow or wide board depends on your personal preference, but there are some general guidelines based on your height and shoe size. Here’s what to start with based on shoe size: 

•  US 5 / EU 36.5 - Deck width: 7.625-8 inches
•  US 7 / EU 40 - Deck width: 7.875-8.125 inches
• US 9 / EU 40.5 - Deck width: 8-8.375 inches
•  US 12 / EU 46 - Deck width: 8.375-8.625 inches 

When choosing the best skateboard for you, width is more important than length, but there are guidelines for skateboard length based on your height: 

•  Shorter than 140 cm (4’6) - Deck length: 28-30.5 inches 
• 150-175 cm (between 4’10-5’8) - Deck length: 31.5-31.875 inches 
• 180-210 cm (between 5’9-6’9) - Deck length: 32-32.5 inches

Speaking generally, if you wear an adult shoe size (Men’s US 8+ or equivalent), a full-sized skateboard that’s 7.5-inches wide will work for you. If speed is your goal, wider boards are best. You’ll often see different guides or manufacturers recommending sizes based on age, though there can be a big range if you rely on that measurement. Sizing your board based on your shoe size and/or height will likely work better. 

Skateboarding is a really fun way to travel whether it’s for fun or a commute. These days, you can choose from electric skateboards, regular skateboards, and longboards. Each ride has pros and cons, but the one thing that unites them all is they come with safety risks. Even the best riders fall and crash. When that happens, you want to be protected from injuries as much as possible. Protective gear like elbow pads is essential.

In this guide, we’re going to run down a list of the top 9 best skateboard elbow pads (also suitable for longboarding), as well as buying considerations and frequently asked questions.

Top 9 Best Skateboard Elbow Pads

• Lightweight, but durable
• Great fit and comfort
• Three pad options

All elbow pads restrict your movement somewhat, but these pads are designed to be less bulky. They have a streamlined, tapered finish. The high-strength ballistic nylon is lightweight while the double-stitching improves the durability. The shape of the pad is contoured to the elbow shape, so the fit is snug but comfortable. The elastic straps are wide and reinforced.

On the inside of the elbow guard, there’s high-quality shock-absorbing EVA foam and form-fitting riveted caps made from polycarbonate. These pads come in three options: Pro, Slim, and Regular. The Pro version has the thickest padding for the best protection possible. Slim is a good choice if you want something lighter and smaller. Each pad type comes in a variety of sizes starting at extra-small.

• Kevlar front shield
• Designed for comfort
• D30 material absorbs impact

These elbow guards are built for superior protection. The front shield is made from Kevlar, which prevents all kinds of injuries. Kevlar is a great material because it’s strong, but also lightweight. It also holds up in all kinds of temperatures. As for comfort, the Hyper X D30 features perforated neoprene, which helps airflow and moisture control. The mesh panel at the inner elbow also helps keep your arm as cool as possible.

When you fall, the D30 material in these pads absorbs the impact. D30 is a high-performance, shock-absorbing material that resembles foam. The material is designed in such a way that when it meets impact, the molecules “lock” together. This creates a barrier that protects your elbow. After a crash, the material goes back to its usual, soft state. These premium skate elbow pads are great for skateboarding and inline skating.

• Stretchy, breathable material
• Easy to wear
• Perforated protector pads

Described as an elbow sock, this guard is designed for stretchiness and breathability. It’s made from mostly polyester, with 25% polyurethane and 8% spandex. The stretch mesh is both breathable and flexible, so the guard moves with you in various riding positions. Thanks to the elasticated cuffs and silicone printing, it’s easy to slip on this guard, which stays in place on your arm. The fabric reinforcements are designed in a way for added durability.

What about protection? The protectors in each guard are CE-certified. They provide coverage in key areas of your elbow. They are also contoured to fit your arm’s natural shape and perforated to help with the airflow. The seams are flat and inward-facing, which makes the guards more comfortable. With these lightweight skate pads for kids and adults, you get comfort and protection for a great price.

• Smartflex technology
• Breathable and lightweight
• Great fit and look

The coolest thing about these guards is the SmartFlex technology. The pads are flexible and hinge-like, so they’re very comfortable to wear. When they meet an impact, they harden and disperse the energy for your protection. This innovative design keeps the guards lightweight. The fabric is also moisture-wicking, waterproof, and UPF 50+, so you’re kept dry and comfortable as well as safe.

The best elbow pads for skateboarding will have both protection, fit, and style. The G-Form Pro-X marries all three. The compression fabric allows for a snug fit that the brand compares to a “second skin.” It’s a slip-on, so there are no straps to mess with. You get a complete range of motion without the guard slipping thanks to the silicone. If the look of your elbow pads matters to you, you’ll like how these have a superhero vibe to them.

• Heavy-duty foam padding
• High-density cap with reinforced rives
• Comfortable and adjustable

If you need more protection, these are the elbow pads for you. The EVA foam is heavy-duty, so here’s more of a cushion than regular pads. The foam is also contoured for increased flexibility. The cap, which is designed for stability and durability, is impact-resistant and high-density. It’s attached to the elbow guard with reinforced rivets, so it’s built to last.

For comfort, the material is made from 50% nylon, 30% polyester, 10% PP plastic, and 10% elastic. The sleeve is cool and comfortable on your arm. Unlike some guards, the sleeve doesn’t go up super far, so it’s a more compact choice. For the best fit, there’s a top elastic and bottom adjustable strap. These keep the guard in place where it should be: protecting your elbow. They’re good for skateboarding, skating, and roller derby.

• Very stretchy and breathable
• Easy-to-wear design
• Good protection

These soft elbow pads are made from stretchy and breathable chiffon. This is a fabric blend that includes nylon, spandex, and cotton. Because the pads are so stretchy, you don’t need a strap. The material molds to your shape. The materials are also EVA, which means they are considered non-toxic and shouldn’t irritate your skin.

It’s very easy to get these pads on and off. There are silicone non-slip strips at the top and the middle of the pads to help keep them in place. Choose from three sizes to get the right fit. For protection, the foam padding provides good shock absorption. These guards are designed for kids and adults participating in a variety of sports like skateboarding, snowboarding, inline skating, and more.

• Slim design that fits under or over clothes
• Flexible and easy to wear
• Lightweight with EVA padding

If bulky skate elbow pads aren’t your thing, you’ll like the Triple 8 Covert pads. They are the brand’s slimmest elbow guard. Wear them over your clothes or, if you want a more subtle look, under your clothes. Whatever feels best to you. Thanks to the pull-on sleeve, they’re easy to get on or off. The pads are also flexible, so your range of motion isn’t limited while you move around.

To provide cushioning, these soft elbow pads use EVA padding. Because these don’t use a hard cap, they’re very lightweight. They’re so light, many reviews say they’re barely noticeable while they’re on your arms. Because of their slimness, these aren’t great pads if you anticipate a lot of hard falls. They provide some protection and are ideal for times when pads are required.

• SmartFlex technology hardens on impact
• Great air circulation keeps you cool
• Breathable and comfortable fabric

The second entry in the X-series from G-Form Pro, these elbow guards feature SmartFlex technology. This allows the pads to stay flexible while you’re skating, but as soon as you fall, the guard material hardens and protects your elbow. The impact energy disperses. Stay cool thanks to the 2-panel design with front pad ventilation holes. Air circulation is great with these pads, so you won’t feel overheated.

As for the fabric, it’s moisture-wicking with a UPF rating of 50+. UPF stands for Ultraviolet Protection Factor, which means these guards protect your skin from sunburn. The guards stay in place with the compression fabric and silicone grippers. Like the Pro X1, these guards look really cool. They aren’t bulky, but they still provide the protection you need for sports like skateboarding, mountain biking, and rollerblading.

• Plastic hard cap under Kevlar for superior protection
• Comfortable contoured design
• Great for a variety of activities

If you’re looking for an elbow guard with great protection, consider the Stealth Hardcap from Triple 8. It features a plastic hard cap beneath a layer of Kevlar, which is both strong and lightweight. The foam is high-density. You can be confident that these pads will hold up with impacts. For the fit, there are two velcro straps on the top and bottom. After these break in, they are slightly large so order down if you are between sizes.

Elbow guards should be comfortable as well as durable, so you’ll want to wear them. These have a contoured slip-on design and perforated neoprene body. This improves the pad’s breathability. They also dry quickly. Designed in four sizes, the Stealth pads are meant for a variety of activities like skateboarding, biking, roller derby, snowboarding, and any sport where elbow protection is important.

Skate Elbow Pads Buying Considerations

When you’re on the hunt for the best elbow pads for skateboarding, what features do you need to look for? Let’s go over the most important buying considerations:

What safety gear do you use? *

• Helmet
• Knee pads
• Elbow pads
• Wrist guards
• Gloves
• Vest/body armor
• None of the above

Vote

Durability and protection

Can your elbow guards take a beating? That’s the million-dollar question. If they’re flimsy, they won’t protect you when you fall and they won’t last long enough to make it worth your money. When shopping for elbow guards, you want to pay attention to what materials the guards use. Nylon is common in pads and can be found in places like the sleeve and the pad itself. It’s known for its durability.

High-density foam is also a must-have. It’s used as a cushion and to hold the other materials in place. Elbow guards that are on the softer side might rely only on padding for protection. If you want extra protection, look for guards that use extra padding or hard plastic shells. Other examples of materials include polyester, which is versatile, and chiffon, a fabric blend known for its breathability. You’ll often find brands touting special durability and protection features like D30 or SmartFlex technology. Both are flexible, but when they're hit, they harden to protect your elbow.

Breathability and comfort

Besides protection, you should have an idea of how comfortable and breathable the elbow pads are. If they are uncomfortable and make you too hot, you won’t want to wear them.

Pads that use hard shells restrict your movement more than stretchy, padded guards, though they do offer better protection. If flexibility is more important to you, there are lots of guards out there that use compression fabric. This fits smoothly against your skin and doesn’t restrict you. For breathability, look for features like vents, perforated pads, and more.

Fit and size

How an elbow guard fits and its size is part of how comfortable it is to wear. Depending on the style, you might just pull up the guard like a compression sleeve or adjust it with straps. Straps can help you get a snugger fit, but compression-style guards usually have a feature like silicone grips to keep the guards from moving around on your arm. You want your elbow to rest in the guard.

It should be snug, but not so tight that it cuts off your circulation. When shopping for elbow guards, make sure you know your size first and look into whether the elbow guards run small or large. Check out the reviews to see what customers are saying. The brand might also recommend sizing up or down if you find yourself between sizes.

Price

Elbow pads are just one piece of the needed safety gear for skateboarding, so you might not want to spend a ton of money. Price can range between $25 to $70, depending on the brand and features. Distributors will also have sales where prices can drop significantly. When you’re looking at an elbow guard, make sure it’s sold in a set. Some are sold individually for some reason, so the price will double if you buy two.

Avoid getting an elbow guard just because it’s the cheapest option. Balance the price with the other buying considerations we discussed, as well as how confident you are on your skateboard. If you fall a lot, you’ll want to invest in good protection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you need elbow pads for skateboarding?

Skateboarding is a risky activity. It requires excellent balance and even the best riders fall sometimes. Injuries to the arms are very common.

You can slam your elbow into the ground or scrape it pretty badly. “Swellbow,” a well-known injury in the skateboarding community, is officially known as “olecranon bursitis.” This is when you hit the tip of your elbow bone. It becomes inflamed and fills with liquid under the skin. It’s susceptible to infection. You can prevent this type of gruesome injury by wearing elbow pads.

How do elbow pads protect you?

Skate elbow pads are designed to protect your elbow bone and skin. They’re made from foam, which cushions your arm. Guards often include a hard plastic shell for added protection. The fabric that holds these pieces together protects the area around your elbow from scratches and cuts.

How do you wear elbow guards?

Like all safety equipment, elbow guards need to fit you properly. If they’re too loose, they’ll slip around and won’t provide reliable protection. If they’re too tight, they’ll restrict your movement and cut off your circulation.

Elbow guards come in a variety of sizes, so you’ll need to measure certain parts of your arm. With a soft measuring tape, measure around the center of your elbow. Sizing guides call this area “C.” The top of your elbow is A, while the bottom of your arm (where the bottom of the pad goes) is B. In general, size small is 7-8 inches for C, while a medium is 9-10 inches. A large size is 11-12 inches.

When you put on your elbow guard, move your arm around, and bend your elbow to see how it feels. These days, elbow guards are more flexible and lightweight than ever, so if you don’t like how one feels, there’s a better fit out there.

Should you get a thick elbow pad or a slim one?

Is it better to get a thick elbow pad or a thinner one? It depends. If you are nervous about injuries or have gotten hurt in the past, you’ll want all the protection you can get. That might mean sacrificing some flexibility, but even bulkier pads should be fitted to give you freedom of motion.

If you don’t like how thick elbow guards feel, but you don’t want to go skateboarding with bare elbows, a slim one will work. These may not have a plastic shell inside, but there will be plenty of padding.

If you're getting elbow pads for riding electric skateboards, we recommend going with a thick and sturdy product as general riding speeds will be higher.

Do skateboard elbow pads work for longboarding?

Elbow pads work for a variety of sports, including longboarding. A longboard is a little different than a skateboard. As their name suggests, they are longer by a few inches. They’re also wider. This width and length make them a bit easier to balance on, which is good news for people who are new to the activity. Even though it can be safer to longboard, there are still risks and you do need protection. Even professionals wear all the safety gear. You don’t need special elbow guards; ones designed for skateboarding are fine.

Where else should you wear elbow pads?

Skate pads for adults, teens, and kids should be worn during any activity that might cause an injury. That includes longboarding, skating, snowboarding, mountain biking, and roller derby. Martial artists also wear elbow pads. They usually choose ones that are soft and very flexible because they need to move around so much. Some people even wear elbow pads outside of sports, like in construction where they need to be down on the floor or around equipment that could hurt them.

If you have elbow pads, do you need other protective gear?

Elbow pads are just one piece of safety gear you should wear when you’re skateboarding. They only protect your elbow, so you also need wrist guards, which protect your wrist. There are also shoulder pads and padded shirts, which protect your shoulders, back, and chest. For the rest of your body, you’ll need knee pads and a good helmet.

It can get annoying to spend money on this safety equipment, but if you get seriously injured, your medical bill will far exceed the cost of a helmet, elbow pads, wrist guards, etc. You’ll also be paying an emotional and mental cost, so investing in your safety is the way to go.

Conclusion

The best skateboard elbow pads combine protection, durability, and comfort. While you want your elbow bone and skin shielded against injuries like swellbow, you also want to be able to move freely.

Getting the right fit is important, so if you don’t have one, get a soft measuring tape before buying your elbow guards. If you’re worried about falling a lot, we liked the Triple 8 EP 55 elbow pads. We picked the Alpinestars Paragons for best value, Demon United Hyper X D30 for the best premium pads and the 187 Killer elbow pads for best overall.

When shopping for skate elbow pads, consider features like durability, breathability, size, fit, and price. Your safety matters. Have fun out there and always ride responsibly, for the sake of yourself and the ones you come across on the road.

If you want to get better at skateboarding, follow these simple guidelines. They will instill fundamentals, improve your balance, and give you the form you need to learn new and better tricks.

1. Learn to Fall

This sounds cheeky, but knowing how to fall is a legitimate skill possessed by the best skateboarders. When you are performing tricks on a board with wheels, you can expect to stumble and fall a lot. If you know how to fall and land properly, though, you are less likely to injure yourself and get back up for more practice. To avoid serious injury when a trick goes awry, follow these guidelines:

• Do not land on your palms or hands – you can break your wrists. Wrist protection can help with this.
• Run out of the trick
• Roll so you land on your back or shoulder, not your face
• Wear kneepads and elbow pads so you can slide
• Wear safety-certified skateboard helmets to protect your head

Each of these guidelines teaches a different way to fall and land so you avoid serious injury.

Don't Land on your Palms

The first rule is one of the most important. It is human nature to throw the hands out when falling so you can catch yourself, but this is a terrible idea on concrete or hard ramps. The fall will place all of the force on your wrists, which are small and easily broken.

Run Out of the Trick

To run out a trick, you need to literally run. If you are learning something new and realize it is not going well, bail out and run out your momentum. This prevents a fall and gives you a chance to try again.

Roll When Falling

Rolling, meanwhile, is a great way to reduce the force and momentum of a failed trick so a fall is not as painful. To roll, you need to tuck your arms in and flip so you land on your back when falling off of a skateboard. This technique should be practiced on grass first so you know how to do it properly when skateboarding.

Wear Protection Gear

Finally, remember to wear kneepads. These protect your knees from damage and often have a piece of hard molded plastic on the front. The plastic is designed to slide on a ramp or across concrete so you don’t hurt yourself with a blunt impact.

2. Go to Skateparks and Meet People

One of the most difficult parts of learning skateboarding is trying to teach yourself new tricks. While some people have great luck on their own, it is best to become part of a community. Making new friends at skateparks allows you to be social, have fun, and also correct each other when learning new tricks or techniques.

Meeting people can also be a great way to learn from one another. Other skateboarders will have new tips. Let’s say you know how to do a 360 hard flip and your new friend can do a 360 toe flip. You can teach one another and show off new skills, helping everyone improve. You then also benefit from the skills of another.

Plus, having a dedicated group of friends can give you an extra incentive to practice, improve, and visit the skatepark every day. Trying to do it alone by practicing in your driveway can be fun, but you’re missing out on tons of opportunities.

Community is one of the most powerful motivators we have as humans so becoming a part of a skating community is the way to go.

3. Train Your Core

Skateboarding is a sport that requires strength and flexibility throughout the body. If you are out of shape or just beginning, it is important to train your core, build muscle, and learn endurance. This can be done by skateboarding every day, but you can also learn by doing other forms of exercise like weightlifting, cardio, and crunches.

Training your core offers numerous benefits. It teaches greater control and balance while on your board and can make it easier to fall properly so you avoid injury. It also makes tricks easier, since you have better control over your muscles.

If you are unsure about core exercises, there are many YouTube videos and guides tailored to skateboarders. Some of the best activities are lifting, sit-ups, and crunches because they focus on building abdominal muscles. You don’t need a weight bench: even just having one or two dumbbells will be enough.

4. Learn Fakie and Switch

Maybe you know how to ride properly and move forward but never learned fakie and switch. Not taking the time to develop these skills can close off entire catalogs of skills and tricks. If you are struggling to get better and want a new way to improve, challenge yourself by learning how to skateboard backward or use a different stance.

At the same time, it is a good idea to avoid Mungo pushing and instead instill proper pushing habits. Although Mungo is easy, it is lazy and causes you to forget some essential skateboarding fundamentals. Learning fakie, switch, and good form might take time, but they are fundamental skills that will improve your overall technique and give you something impressive to show your friends.

If the switch stance is too hard, don’t sweat it. Focus instead on Fakie and avoid the Mungo.

5. Practice Every Day

Finally, the only way to get better at skateboarding is to practice every day. This means trying the same tricks over and over again, working on your form, and focusing on fundamentals. Skateboarding drills are not exciting, but they are necessary. Although it can be annoying and take a lot of time, there is a major difference between someone who has a good background of experience and someone who neglects the basics.

If you are struggling to get to a skatepark every day, there is nothing wrong with practicing in your driveway or garage. While you won’t have the opportunity to learn tricks on a ramp, you can still improve your form. You can then devote your skatepark time to trying out new tricks, flips, and styles.

Wrapping It Up

As with any new skill, skating takes a long time to master. It is important to remember that you should enjoy the journey rather than focusing only on the end goal. If you let yourself get down for not being able to land a tough trick and only focus on how good you want to become, you'll soon wear yourself and your motivation out.

Experts say it takes 10,000 hours to fully master a skill and that may be true for skateboarding as well. Don't sweat it too much and remember to have fun. Our brain is wired in specific ways and by completing certain tasks (like skating) we slowly change how those wires are connected in the brain without noticing. This is called muscle memory and it is crucial for your continual improvement.

There's no easy way to become a master overnight but following the above five steps, a solid foundation for improving your skating relatively fast should be laid.

The more time you spend on your deck and wheels, the better. Get out there, have fun, meet like-minded people and always challenge your current ability.

Going electric? Learn how to ride an electric skateboard in a few simple steps.

Skateboarding is an action sport that is popular for entertainment, exercise, competition, and transportation. It is highly versatile and can be enjoyed by anyone, but requires significant practice. After all, remaining upright on a moving board is no small feat.

If you are interested in learning how to skate (or how to e-skate) or are already active in the sport, you no doubt understand the importance of knee pads. These are a form of protective gear for the legs which stop the wearer from scraping or bruising their kneecaps during falls. Instead of remaining unprotected next time you hop on your board, check out these reviews for the best skateboard knee pads currently on the market.

Top 10 Best Skateboard Knee Pads

These 187 Killer Fly Pads are designed to sit comfortably around the knee and can be adjusted with buckles and flexible material. The fabric is slim and form-fitting, while the interior foam provides extra cushioning without restricting the motion of the knee. Over the kneecap itself is molded plastic, which is excellent for sliding. This plastic extends to the front sides of the knee to reduce injuries upon impact.

The fabric itself is made from ballistic nylon with industrial weight stitching for durability, and it has a seamless finish. This means wearers do not have to worry about the seams or stitches digging into their flesh while skateboarding.

There are multiple colors available so wearers can be creative and express their individuality. Multiple sizes are also available from extra small to extra large. One thing wearers need to consider is that the pads can run slightly small, so it is better to go a size up than down.

Overall, these are some of the most durable and comfortable knee pads for skateboarding. They provide reliable cushioning and do not impede movement in any way.

One feature which separates the 187 Killer Pro knee pads design is the inclusion of a lock-in cap system. This addition secures and aligns the removable cap in the correct position so the wearer is comfortable but protected. The cap itself is easy to adjust and is made from hard, molded plastic to provide a smooth sliding surface during falls.

Besides the cap, these Pro skateboard knee pads distinguish themselves by using V-22 dual-density foam. The foam is super shock-absorbent and cushions the leg throughout multiple impacts. It even bends along with the wearer and provides protection along the sides and back of the knee in addition to the front. The material laid over the foam is moisture-wicking ballistic nylon with a seamless design. This means extra comfort for you and fewer irritating red marks on your legs.

In terms of structure, the 187 Killer Pro skateboard knee pads have an open back design and use a combination of elastic and buckles to properly protect skateboarders. There are multiple sizes available ranging from extra small to extra large. There is also a junior option for children and multiple colors.

One particular highlight of these pads is they are some of the easiest to pull on and off. They also feel a lot more comfortable and seamless on the knees than most other pads.

Although the JBM International Skateboard Knee Pads are marketed towards youth, they are a stellar option for adults who are on a budget. These vert pads include soft and durable EVA padding which can withstand multiple impacts. Tough plastic plates cover the kneecaps and provide optimal protection for the bone while leaving the rest of the joint open and flexible.

The primary material for the exterior is breathable elastic covered with easy to clean canvas. This ensures maximum flexibility but also improved durability. Velcro is used to keep the pads in place, and the straps can be adjusted to improve the overall fit.

The JBM International pads come with skateboard wrist guards and are available in blue or yellow. They are ideal for anyone who needs protection on a budget and they come in three separate sizes. However, these are perhaps the best skateboarding pads for kids of all ages and experience levels.

4. Triple Eight KP 22 Longboarding Knee Pads

These Triple Eight KP 22 skateboard knee pads are ideal for heavy-duty use and skateboarders and longboarders who intend to be rough. The durable molded plastic covers the entirety of the knee cap and extends further than those of other models, improving overall protection and durability. Rivets reinforce the cover to improve stability and give the pads a professional appearance.

The interior padding is made of heavy-duty EVA memory foam covered by easy to clean canvas. The fabric is seamless to improve comfort and reduce redness. To secure the pads, wearers use the neoprene butterfly closure and elastic straps that can be adjusted as needed to suit skateboarders of all sizes.

The Triple Eight KP 22 are available in sizes small to extra large with a bonus junior’s option for children 12 years of age and under. One major perk not seen too often in skateboarding knee pads is the inclusion of a manufacturer’s limited 180-day warranty for returns if the pads are the wrong size or break.

5. Pro-Tec Street Knee Pads

Pro-Tec boasts 45 years of experience manufacturing skateboard equipment, and it remains one of the most popular businesses in the industry. These street skateboard knee pads are a good example of what the manufacturer has learned in the past five decades. In particular, instead of relying upon elastic bands, the Pro-Tec pads are held in place with full wrap hook and loop fasteners that create a tight and secure fit. Neoprene is also used as the primary fabric for the back to improve comfort.

The interior is made of stretch lycra with upper and lower support straps. These allow wearers like you to get the right fit no matter what the situation. Plus, the pads themselves are CE certified.

When it comes to protection, wearers can rely on the molded plastic on the front to defend the kneecap. These are riveted into place to avoid shifting and cover the front of the knee, leaving the sides and back open. This improves overall flexibility and ease of movement.

For sizing, you have the choice of small to extra large. There is also a junior’s size to fit most children under the age of 12.

6. PHZ 3-in-1 Protective Gear Set

Moving on to the PHZ 3-in-1 protective gear set. These are a versatile option for all ages with a classic design, hard molded plastic to cover the kneecap, and flexible neoprene. The interior is once again made from a durable EVA foam which absorbs the shock of impact and resumes its original shape once the skateboarder is off the ground. The front plastic is perfectly rounded to better cover the knee.

When it comes to sizing, wearers can choose between small, medium, and large. Size is determined by height and weight instead of standard knee measurements. One potential downside is the sizes are designed with youth in mind and are not ideal for adults over 170 lbs. They do, however, make excellent choices for juniors and smaller men and women.

Multiple colors are available to allow wearers to express their creativity, including black, blue, and pink. The pads can be held in place with adjustable straps, and PHZ Is unique in offering one of the best warranties seen in the skateboarding business. Buyers can take advantage of a 12-month manufacturer’s warranty which covers basic wear and tear as well as production errors.

7. Triple Eight Covert Knee Pads

The Triple Eight Covert’s are what could be considered street kneepads, designed to have flexibility and versatility in mind. They do not have molded plastic like some other options, but instead protect the knee using reinforced stitching, foam, and extra padding. These Triple Eights stand out by having a pull-on design sleeve with EVA padding. The slim fit design allows them to fit under and over clothes with ease, so wearers can have them in place over jeans.

These provide some of the slimmest knee protection possible and are specifically designed and marketed for those situations where you don’t want to wear pads, but they are required. Sizing is standard small, medium, and large.

Because these pads offer little protection for the wearer, they are not ideal for beginners or juniors.

8. Triple Eight Street Knee Pads

These Triple Eight Street skateboard Knee Pads are similar to the other Triple Eights but are the opposite end of the spectrum. These are designed to be extremely durable and protective. This makes them ideal for extreme tricks, and they are even recommended for roller derby and longboarding. The front has molded plastic which covers the entirety of the kneecap with a little extra protection for the space above and below the bone. The plastic is riveted into place.

The interior of these Triple Eight’s features high-density contoured EVA foam around the sides and back. Although thick, it still allows for flexibility and versatility even in difficult situations. The back features a butterfly closing system for easy on and off, and the elastic in the neoprene fabric improves flexibility and overall fit.

There is once again a manufacturer’s warranty which extends 180 days after the initial purchase. The sizes run from extra small to large and are good for juniors, teenagers, and adults.

9. Bodyprox Protective Knee Pads

The Bodyprox Protective Knee Pads are unisex and designed for moderate use. These could be considered street knee pads because they do not include protective plastic for the kneecap. Instead, there is an extra layer of foam to protect the bone. The primary fabric covering is made of polyester, rubber, some foam, and latex.

One major pro of these skateboard knee pads is that the fabric is moisture-wicking and breathable. This means wearers will not have to worry about sweaty kneecaps and other discomforts while skateboarding. Plus, the design actually helps the wearer stay warm and limber while in motion.

Instead of having a traditional fastening mechanism, these pads stay on because of the latex and rubber in the material. These form a snug fit with the wearer’s flesh. The pads can be slipped on and off with ease and are available in small, medium, and large.

10. G-Form Pro X2 Knee Pads

The G-Form Pro X2 skateboard Knee pads are a comfortable vert style that protects the entirety of the knee and part of the thigh and calf. The protective plastic over the kneecap is made from SmartFlex, which is flexible while in motion and firm upon impact. The rest of the pad, particularly the wraparound, is made of a moisture-wicking, UPF 50+ compression fabric.

Unlike other skateboard knee pads, the G-Form Pro X2’s have proper ventilation to keep the knees cool and dry during periods of hard exercise. The compression sleeve and silicone grips help the pads stick to the skin.

One of the pros of these skateboard knee pads is that they are available in a broad range of sizes, including extra small and XX-large. They can be worn by children and adults alike and are also lightweight and unnoticeable when in use.

Buying Guide and Considerations

Since skate knee pads play a significant defensive role, it is important to get a pair that fits properly. You also want to check the durability and flexibility of the material since these characteristics affect how quickly the pads will weaken and degrade. They can also affect how well you skate if you are still learning or are trying to perform new tricks.

What safety gear do you use? *

• Helmet
• Knee pads
• Elbow pads
• Wrist guards
• Gloves
• Vest/body armor
• None of the above

Vote

Instead of leaving your decision to chance, consider the following features when making a selection.

Size and Fit

If your skateboard knee pads do not fit, then you put yourself at risk of major injuries. When determining the best skateboard knee pads for you, take a look at the size and fit. Proper pads for skateboarding will be tight enough to remain on your leg even when you are active. Movement should not cause the material to slip or loosen. At the same time, the pads must be loose enough to remain comfortable.

To determine the right size for you, you can use a flexible tape measure or your height and weight.

Pad Types

Once you know your size, you need to determine what type of pads you would like. They can be divided into three categories: toy, vert, and street.

Toy Pads

Toy pads are exactly what they sound like. These are skateboarding knee pads that are purchased from a big box store like Meijer or Wal-Mart. They are sold as toys for younger audiences, including children. The primary material tends to be plastic or foam, and the pads are held in place by thin straps of elastic and Velcro.

In general, skateboarders need to avoid wearing toy pads. They do not offer enough protection for riding at high speeds, performing tricks, or practicing on ramps. It is also difficult to safely slide on the foam surface, which can increase your chances of developing scrapes, bruises, and friction burns.

Vert Pads

Vert kneepads were designed for skateboarding and therefore feature more protection. The wrapping for the leg is made of thick foam while the pad over the knee is hard plastic. There is more foam behind the pad to cushion the leg, and a layer of cloth underneath the foam protects the skin.

These are the best options for skating and longboarding because they provide protection for the entire knee and form the perfect surface for sliding. The only potential downside is the padding is thinner around the back of the knee for improved flexibility.

Street Pads

The final style is street skateboarding pads. These offer little protection and tend to be worn for fashion rather than form. They possess a thin layer of foam encased in cloth and do not have any plastic. They cover the entire knee and often part of the thigh and calf.

The only pro to using this type of skateboard knee pads is that they're comfortable. It's better than nothing, but definitely not on par with vert pads, hence the majority of the pads we included above are vert pads.

Material

Skateboarding knee pads use similar materials no matter the size or style. In general, the most popular material is reinforced foam. The foam forms a cushion that absorbs the shock and force of impact, reducing the wearer’s chances of injury. All skateboarding knee pads will have foam even if they lack other materials.

Plastic is another option. Hard plastics can be layered over the foam to provide extra protection and keep the wearer moving if they fall. This is because the plastic forms a hard surface that is conducive to sliding rather than stopping on the ground.

Some other minor materials include elastic, cloth, and Velcro. These are used to keep the pad in place and provide extra comfort for the wearer. Almost all pads will use these materials in some combination to ensure the pads remain on and don’t chafe the skin.

Wearers will get to decide how much foam padding, plastic, and elastic would mean optimum comfort.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Finding the best skateboarding pads for kids and adults doesn’t need to be a difficult task. One advantage of the skateboarding industry is that businesses have invested tons of money in technology to create comfortable and versatile equipment for athletes. If you are looking for something comfortable and durable to wear while longboarding or freestyling, check out the 187 Killer Fly skateboard knee pads. These are flexible and can be worn by almost anyone.

If you want something premium or are on a budget, two other excellent options are the 187 Killer Pro skateboard knee pads and the JBM International Skateboard knee pads. Whatever you choose, just remember to get the right size and practice on a regular basis.

Lastly, we highly recommend you take a look at some skating elbow pads and skateboard helmets as well because knee pads are only part of the gear you need to reduce the risk and severity of injuries.

In this guide, we’re going to go through the best wrist protection on the market no matter whether you are riding a regular skateboard or an electric skateboard, as well as buying considerations and frequently asked questions.

Top 10 Best Wrist Guards for Skateboarding

• Doesn’t restrict your fingers
• Breathable and comfortable
• Great durability for the price

A fingerless skateboard wrist guard, this glove frees up your hand while providing the protection you need. Not having fingers on the glove helps your hand move more naturally without restriction. The guard plate is contoured and cupped to fit a wider area of your palm and wrist, so you’re getting full protection from hard impacts. The splint is also extra-thick at the base, which is the area most affected by hard falls. The inside of the glove is padded, so you’re comfortable. Worried about the heat? The 187 Killer Pads Derby is made from perforated materials, which helps improve the guard’s breathability. There’s also a sweatband.

As for durability, these guards have a reinforced thumb hole and palm. There’s also industrial-grade stitching in the ballistic nylon material, so you can wear these guards for a long time before they start to break down. They’re available in sizes X-small through Large with an adjustable strap. These gloves were designed for derby skaters, but they work for skateboarding, as well.

• Very durable
• Removable, replaceable top and bottom splints
• Provides impressive protection

A wrist protector designed to withstand many falls, the Triple Eight Hired Hands guards are not messing around. Described by the company as their “burliest” guard, it offers complete wrist protection. Unlike the 187 Killer Pads, it does mostly cover the fingers, leaving about half of them free. It’s made with top-grain leather and layers of EVA shock-absorbing foam with double stitching.

These gloves aren’t cheap, so it’s nice that the top and bottom ABS splints are removable. That means they can be replaced. Their thickness protects you during hard falls. How a glove fits is important for protection, so the Triple Eight uses a thick neoprene strap. Triple Eight recommends the guards for skateboarding, rollerblading, and roller derby. If you’re a hardcore skater and worried about a fall's impact, these gloves hold up.

• Convenient slide-on design
• Great fit
• Solid protection

A great choice for kids or skaters who don’t want to spend a lot on wrist guards, the Wristersaver II boasts a great slide-on design. Rather than the traditional three straps, this skateboard wrist guard just has one. You can spend less time getting geared up and more time on the road. These gloves also fit really well thanks to the 4-way stretch nylon mesh. It molds to your skin without feeling suffocating. Flexibility is also aided by the fact these gloves leave your fingers free.

What about protection? Both the front and back of the gloves use high-density, impact-resistant molded ABS splints. There’s EVA foam between the splints and wrist for added comfort. This foam is also shock-absorbing. The Wristsaver II from Triple 8 comes in junior, small, medium, and large.

• Unique breathable design
• Strong protection
• Adjustable snug tight

All you need to do is look at this skateboard wrist guard to know it’s unique. It prioritizes breathability, so there isn’t material on the back of the hand and its fingerless. It’s a great choice for summer when it’s hot and you don’t want your hands to get too sweaty. Riders may be concerned about the back of their hands not getting as much protection, but wrist guards are already designed to protect just the front.

The part of your hand that is covered is well-protected. The guards are made with ABS plastic bone shells in the wrist and palm. Between the splints and wrist, there’s shock-absorbing EVA foam which adds extra cushioning and comfort. There are three sizes available, so these should work for both kids and adults. To adjust the fit, there are two adjustable nylon straps on your palm and wrist. The skateboard wrist guards will feel snug while freeing up your fingers. Your thumb gets a lot of freedom, too.

• Designed to fit under gloves and mittens
• Flexible splints
• Comfortable, adjustable fit

These wrist guards were made for snowboarders, but they’re great for skateboarding or rollerblading when it’s cold outside. They can be worn underneath regular gloves and mittens, so you don’t have to choose between safety and warmth. In warmer months, just take off the gloves or mittens, and wear the skateboard wrist guards by themselves. They’re a great choice for all-year riders.

Will your hands feel like they’re bandaged when you’re wearing the wrist protection and a pair of gloves? Burton considered that, so they made the wrist guards sleek and lean. The skateboard wrist guard’s top splints are tapered and flexible. Even while you’re fully protected, you can move your hands naturally. They’re fingerless, as well. These gloves are also made with very comfortable material. It’s a blend of polyester, NBR, nylon, and polyethylene. The padding is soft. To make sure the gloves fit, there are hook-and-loop adjustment straps. There’s a variety of sizes in men/unisex, women, kids, and even toddlers.

• Designed with roller derby in mind
• Impressive protection
• Comfortable

Most wrist guards for skating are multi-purpose and can be used for snowboarding, inline skating, and more. These are the best skateboard gloves for derby skating. They’re designed with a wider palm splint. There’s a lot of falling in roller derby, so having this specific feature is important for extra safety. If you’re a bit of a risk-taker when it comes to skateboarding, these would be a good choice, as well.

The front and back splints, which are high-density and impact-resistant, are replaceable. You can wear these gloves for a long time, replacing the splints as needed to stay confident in your safety. Durability is also helped by the reinforced double-stitching. What about comfort? This set of gloves is made with neoprene, which maintains its flexibility in a variety of temperatures. It’s heat and oil resistant. Getting the gloves on is easy, too, thanks to the EZ pull-on loop. There’s only one adjustment strap, so gearing up is fast. The Triple Eight RD is available in four sizes.

• Both gloves and guards in one
• Durable materials
• Impressive protection

This product from Hillbilly is best described as “gloves with wrist support.” They more closely resemble regular gloves than skateboard wrist guards. This makes them more comfortable. For snowboarders, you don’t need to put gloves over the guards.

Made from goatskin leather, these gloves provide support, comfort, and warmth. They’re double-stitched with heavy-duty nylon thread, so they’re meant to last. These are half finger gloves, so you get more freedom and flexibility. The spoon-shaped splints in both the palm and back of the hand helps with flexibility, too. Both the front and back of your hands are protected and supported.

• Great comfort and fit
• Great protection
• Cool color options

Designed for skating of all kinds, these skateboard gloves are a great choice for teens who don’t want to spend a ton of money. They have a contoured design which helps with a superior fit and comfort. The three adjustable velcro straps let you fit the guards as snug as you need. They are fingerless for flexibility.

For protection, these guards boast an extra-thick splint. If you’ve had injuries in the past or you’re worried about bad falls, you can feel safer with the splint. The ballistic nylon and reinforced double-stitching contributes to the guard’s durability, as well. The unique thing about these guards is the color choices! There’s blue, red, brown leopard, and even purple leopard. Many teens (and adults) love to express themselves colorfully and these guards let them do that while staying safe.

• Great fit
• Impressive protection
• The non-derby alternative to Triple Eight RD

The fit is one of the most important features of any skateboard wrist guard. On these, there’s a 4-way stretch nylon mesh that gives you a close fit, while providing durability. The strap is mesh, as well, and helps you get that snugness.

As for protection, there’s a lot to like. The front and back splints are high-density, impact-resistant molded ABS. Between the splints and wrists, you’ve got shock-absorbing EVA foam. This provides a nice cushion. The Triple Weight Savers are very similar to the Triple Eight RD gloves. The only difference is that these aren’t designed for derby, so the splints aren’t as wide. Beyond that, they’re essentially the same. You can wear them for skateboarding, for rollerblading, and for snowboarding.

• Durable build
• Great protection
• Comfortable fit

We talked about the 187 wrist guards for derby way back at the beginning of this guide. These gloves are very similar, but there are a few differences. The regular 187 Killer guards are a bit longer and not designed for sliding. The construction is durable and made from materials like ballistic nylon, industrial-weight stitching, and a reinforced thumb hole.

For protection, the splint is thick, so you get superior protection at the base of your hand. This area is very vulnerable during falls, so you want that splint focused there. The palm is reinforced, as well. Three adjustable straps get you the best fit possible. The design of the gloves is angled a bit, so you get more flexibility as well as strength. These work for a variety of sports, but if you are looking for guards specific to roller derby, the derby version of these gloves is the better choice.

Buying Considerations

There are a lot of choices out there for skateboard wrist guards. If you’re hoping to get the best wrist guards for skateboarding, you’ll want to think about features like what the gloves are made of, how durable they are, their flexibility, and more.

What safety gear do you use? *

• Helmet
• Knee pads
• Elbow pads
• Wrist guards
• Gloves
• Vest/body armor
• None of the above

Vote

Here are the main things to consider before buying:

Materials

What are the skateboard gloves made of? There’s a variety of materials like fabric, calfskin, latex, elastic, goatskin leather, and more. You want a material that will last a while and that’s appropriate for the weather. If it’s hot, you might want to look at lightweight, breathable materials.

Thicker materials are good for colder weather and they provide more protection. If you want something hard, materials like hard foam, carbon fiber, and even metal are an option. Generally, the thicker a material, the more protection you’ll get. The tradeoff is you might sweat more and lose some flexibility.

Flexibility and fit

Speaking of flexibility, how much freedom of motion does the wrist guard provide? A skateboard wrist guard can be well-made and provide protection, but if it feels like you can’t move at all, that might be a problem. You want the guards to feel comfortable. Fit is closely-related to comfort, so make sure the wrist guards have straps you can adjust if necessary.

Most traditional guards use three straps to help secure the fit, while some are designed to slip on and off more easily. You’ll also see guards that more closely resemble regular gloves. Some brands tend to run small, which is great if you’re buying for a kid, but frustrating if you don’t take the time to note the sizing.

You’ll want to make sure you’re measuring and choose the right size.

Style

There are a few wrist protection styles. Full-finger skateboard wrist guards are designed like traditional gloves, meaning they cover your whole wrist and fingers. These are usually meant for sliding tricks where you put your hand on the ground.

Half-finger guards free up your fingertips, while others are completely fingerless. It’s up to you which works best and makes you feel safe. If you want to make as much freedom of motion possible in your hands, fingerless guards are probably the way to go.

Designed purpose

Most wrist guards can be used for a variety of activities, like skateboarding, inline skating, roller derby, and even snowboarding. It is worth considering what the brand intended the gloves to be used for, though, because that can affect your experience. The best wrist guards for skateboarding on the road will be a bit different than guards meant for derby.

The palm splint and length might be different. Prices could also vary a bit, so check out if the skateboard gloves have been designed for a specific purpose before buying. In general, you’ll probably be happy with gloves meant for derby during regular skating and boarding, but if you in derby, you’ll want the extra protection that derby-specific guards give you.

Price

No matter what you’re buying, the price should be a consideration. You don’t want to pay more than you have to, but you also don’t want to choose something just because it’s the cheapest. In general, a skateboard wrist guard set will cost you between $20-$60.

Brand name plays a role in the pricing, as well as features like durability and flexibility. If you’re a beginner and anticipate a learning curve, it’s probably worth paying a bit more for the extra protection. Checking out reviews to see what real people are saying can help narrow down your choices, too.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Wrist guards for skating are an important piece of safety equipment every rider should strongly consider wearing. While they can’t guarantee you won’t ever injury yourself, they reduce your chances of getting hurt and decrease an injury’s severity.

When you’re shopping for gloves with wrist support, consider factors like the style, durability, flexibility, fit, and price.

There’s a skateboarding wrist guard out there for anyone, including sets that are great for teens (Smith Safety Gear Scabs), great for winter (Burton Adult Wrist Guards), and best for daredevils (Triple Eight RD Wristsaver). Our top pick is the 187 Killer Pads Derby wrist guard set.